Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I purchased and installed the Commercial Skid Shoes on the New Honda HS 928TAS tracked snowblower.   If you are considering this, here is what you should know.  YOU have to locate, center-punch and drill  4 -  1/8" pilot holes, then open them up with an 11/32" steel drill.  The bolts and lock-nuts Honda supplies are plain steel, as in they should rust together fairly quick on the bottom front of the machine.  If you hope to ever adjust them again, or remove them go to www.allensfasteners.com and order 8 mm X 20 SS Hex Bolts, lock washers, fender washers, and lock-nuts also made of SS.  Then you can trash the Honda quick rust serrated flange bolts, and nuts the Commercial Skid Shoes come with, Honda Gypped me on the washers they were supposed to have in the kit, you'll havta buy your own.  I chose 8 mm SS fender washers to secure the shoes in place.

When the light decision is made, I'll let you know how it goes.

I got Honda supplied nuts and bolts with my skid shoes kit.  Didn't use them, something wasn't feel right about letting those serrated flange bolts digging through the paint and promoting rusts.   I  bought stainless steel fender washers and stainless steel bolts and nuts.   Used Nyloc style nuts on the outside of the stainless steel nuts to prevent loosening.  I feel much better using this set up because the clamping load is distributed over a larger surface area .

FrankMA wrote:
Electroplated is essentially the same as uncoated steel when it comes to rust.  Hot Dipped Galvanized, or Stainless Steel can resist rust. The bolts I received were anodized, another useless coating that rusts quickly.

aa335 wrote:
I am going to cover the bolts with Plasti-Dip after I am finished, and I intend to coat the studs left after I removed the stock skid shoes that project from the rear of the auger housing. I'm glad to know that there are others who are as anal about these things as I am.  I am toying with the idea of applying 3M Paint Protection film to the bottom of the auger housing.

Heh, this was a mod I had in mind.

On a OPE application, IMO, it does not matter what brand of film  cause we don't to a degree care about the toplayer (clearcoated or not) or how much or how little OrangePeel the film has.
Just go with the thickest film FOR the application you want but on curved areas, you may want to go with a thinner film.

Do it. The clear film will look like crap BUT at least you never have to repaint/touch up .

FWIW, I have clearbra on varying degrees on all my cars. The biggest difference that you will notice on protection is the the clear bra that goes underneath the rockers....
Personally, I prefer Ventureshield out of all the films out there.

newYorker -

re: my other thread response on instructions, a picture speaks a thousands words. No need to mail the instructions.
Just post a pic of you latest mod and it should be all clear to me...

I was only curious on placement.
If one was to not use the stock nut location, which appears to be centered on the bucket, where else are you making the new holes.

The holes are 1.5 inches above the welded nuts, in the depression that looks like a partial circle.

Use neolube on stainless bolts and nuts to prevent galling of threads. Find neolube through google search.  Suggest flange nuts when available.  They had them at the site you recommended but I didn't see the ss fender washers.  My new HS928 has the commercial skids but not sure if bolts are stainless steel so I'm going to change them.

I waxed the metal parts of the snowblower to prep it for use.  Was told to wash it with hot water after each use and to spray it with WD-40 to prevent rust.  Oh, and store it in a garage; not outdoors.  A buddy uses NU Car finish on his snowblower.  Likes the hardness of the finish says it resists the effects of snow hitting the surfaces in the chute and auger housing.  Never used it so I can't comment.

So far (Dec. 22, 2010) and no snow in Pittsburgh. 

Do you notice an improvement in the ease of moving the track drive blower around with the new skids?

Any easier on the back (or harder?)?

Jeez....me wonders what the purpose/intent of of the welded nuts would be for then....

I would think or want that area to be a Ridgid as possible with less holes or have a better suspect area for rust.

Thx for the clarifiication AA....

Underdog wrote:  
It was a bit more effort to turn, especially those 180 degrees.  The bucket was more stable and less wandering since I have a 32" wide bucket.