Abby’s Guide > Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) > Discussions > Someone asked about Honda clones and cold weather proofing
Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions |
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jrtrebor
Location: Michigan - 3 hours north of Chicago on the lake
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Points: 539
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Someone asked about Honda clones and cold weather proofing
Original Message Dec 15, 2010 10:50 pm |
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jrtrebor
Location: Michigan - 3 hours north of Chicago on the lake
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Points: 539
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Re: Someone asked about Honda clones and cold weather proofing
Reply #14 Dec 18, 2010 10:14 pm |
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shryp - Yes, I would think that you should just be able to just use the red to get power for lights. By the way I made my engine swap yesterday and I also have the problem with the blower belt not disengaging so to speak. The belt is plenty loose it slides right around the engine pulley when the engine isn't running. I know what the problem is and have tried 4 or 5things but haven't come up with a solution yet. Actually it's two problems. One is that because the engine/crank sits higher the distance between the pulleys is greater. Which changes the angle that the belt comes to and leaves the pulley. The angle is steeper, the arc that the belt makes over the pulley is tighter. The other issue is that the vertical center of the crank is not in line with the vertical center of the drive and impeller pulleys. Which makes the angle of thebelt even steeper on one side. An exaggerated way to put it would be that the belt now comes at the pulley from the bottom instead of from the side of the pulley. The arc over the pulley is simple to small or to tight. Centering the vertical center of the pulleys would probably fix it. But you can't do that without making a mounting plate for the engine so it can be moved to the left or right. As you know the holes you have to drill for the engine base are right on the corner of the bend in the tractor housing. Moving the engine left or right takes the engine base off into space. That's why you'd have to make a mounting plate out of probably 3/16" plate. Bolt the engine to the plate and then bolt the plate to the blower. I don't like that the blower keeps spinning, but guess I may just have to live with it until I can figure something else out, or make a plate. I kind of like solving problems like this. We'll see. If I figure something out I'll let you know. Who knows, maybe once the belt gets broken in a little, gets a little glaze or shine on the sides it will start slipping the way it supposed to.
Hirschallan - Well my work space is kind of heated, sometimes. I have a small propane fired Ceramic infrared heater that mounts on the tank. It helps raise the temperature a little. I live in Michigan and last week I used my infrared thermometer and took the temperature of various things in my shop. Walls, workbenches, tools. All read about the same temperature 17°. It think I've had it up to about 45°. Felt like summer time. I wish it was heated, cause your right it. It would make it a whole lot more enjoyable.
New Yorker - Thanks for the info about your HS 928TAS light. 50 watts would be plenty you can run a car headlight with 50 watts. It's not like you need to be able to see 20 or 30 yards out in front of you. I guess if I really want to know what the 'current" output is on an 11hp engine with a 12V starter system I'll have to call Honda The new engine came with a new air filter so I took that out. And I happened to have an old air filter element and cover from another Honda. So I took the old filter and pulled all of the paper element out of it through the bottom hole. Then just used the empty cage in the air cleaner box. That way the top cover has the center support that the filter provides when you tighten down the wing nut. Using SS bolts and nuts on your skids is a good idea. I used them to hold on my cutting edge as well. I love stainless anything. I do always cringe a little though when I buy stainless hardware. It's so expensive. I always keep my eyes open for stainless nuts, bolts etc. at garage and estate sales. I had to laugh, I have some 3M Conspicuity tape on my blower as well. I have a set of hole punches and I use the 3/4" one to punch out circles of the tape. Then I just stick them on where ever. I've got a few on the sides of the bucket and the chute. That tape really lights up.
This message was modified Dec 18, 2010 by jrtrebor
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Shryp
Location: Cleveland, OH
Joined: Jul 26, 2010
Points: 532
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Re: Someone asked about Honda clones and cold weather proofing
Reply #15 Dec 18, 2010 11:43 pm |
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Ahh, at first I could not understand what you were saying about vertical center. Then, as I kept reading I now understand you are referring to the crankshaft setting directly on top of the impeller shaft or slightly off to the side. I have not had a chance to get a longer belt yet, but I was thinking of taking some measurements of the pulleys and making a trip to tractorsupply and getting some new belts and seeing what different size pulley ratios I can come up with. I think I had the opposite problem with my belt. When first installed it seemed to slip a bit so it was spinning slowly then it seemed like the belt got kind of gummy and started sticking more. They are cheap belts from the hardware store down the street and might not be OPE rated so that could be part of my problem. I will add that my 2 belts are definitely a bit tight, so when I get them replace I will report back on the problem. Here some info I ran into about the charging system: " Depends on which charging system you have. There are 3 different charging systems for GX390. 3 Amp with one charging coil under flywheel. 10 Amp with two charging coils. 18 Amp with four charging coils. I have the 10 amp system, and I have headlights, running lights and turn signals on my UTV, and it keeps the battery fully charged. The 3 amp system will barely keep the battery charged. The Clone 3 amp systems have been suspect, as to whether they put out the needed power to charge the battery. If yours is a clone, you might consider changing to the OEM Honda coil. If your motor is a 3 amp, you need more than the coils to upgrade to the 10 amp. The rectifier is different on the 10 amp. The wiring also is different on the 10 amp. The rectifier and wiring on the 18 amp are different than the 3 and 10 amp systems as well. Reply With Quote " The parts diagram lists only 1 charge coil, and I believe I have heard these are 3 amp coils before so the information seems to fit. The original thread was here: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/clone-engine-swaps/38923-duromax-vs-carrollstream-engine.html I just did a google search for "honda clone battery" and found some info. I have not had much chance to get into the garage yet, but should have plenty of time next week.
This message was modified Dec 18, 2010 by Shryp
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GtWtNorth
https://t.me/pump_upp
Location: https://t.me/pump_upp
Joined: Nov 16, 2008
Points: 264
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Re: Someone asked about Honda clones and cold weather proofing
Reply #17 Dec 22, 2010 8:22 pm |
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jrtrebor, it was me who asked about the use of clone Hondas on snow blowers. Beautiful work on the various covers by the way, and thanks for all the pics and explanations about what to cover & how you did it. Also recognised the bicycle parts you used for the throttle control, good repurposing. Reminds me of the time many years ago when I was driving my 68 383 Roadrunner with my left leg in a cast. Hooked up a bicycle brake handle & cable to control the gas so I could brake & clutch with my right leg! (no accidents) I also agree with Shryp, you can never have enough power!!! I have a worn out HM100 that I am rebuilding and I will try to wring a little more power from it by porting & polishing the intake & exhaust passages and maybe shaving the head cover a couple of thou. I am always on the lookout for an 11 or 13 horse clone to use on my 924050 8-24 that I am also rebuilding (tried to buy the 15 horse that HD had on sale on line, couldn't do it from Canada). By the way, I notice that the front of the tractor section (where you attach the auger housing) on your machine has a solid plate (holes in it to pass the auger shaft), whereas the smaller machines like my 8-24 have nothing. Is that something you added or do all the larger models come with that extra beef? Cheers
This message was modified Dec 23, 2010 by GtWtNorth
https://t.me/pump_upp
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