Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I've got a Simplicity 2-Stage 1180M Snow Thrower (commercial / pro grade unit). The brake pad that stops the auger belt needs replacement...it is worn through and the bolts that hold it in place are rubbing against the belt....ruined the belt so I replaced that. It looks like I make have to take off the intake housing / auger, etc to get at this part. Or maybe take apart the entire engine housing. Anyone do this before? Hoping to avoid major work here. Also - the auger drive lever has too much tension....it is hard to pull the lever down and engage the auger...and the tension is so high that the unit can not keep the free-hand system working where the auger stays engaged when the drive lever is engaged. It just pops back up. I did the adjustments to the auger and drive tension so they work as expected....except for the extra tension. Not sure what is causing it...seems like one of the springs is too tight or something....could use some ideas here. Thanks, - Ed

Had an 870 but not sure if its like yours. What is the factory model number off the back base of the machine?

trouts2 wrote:

Pretty sure the 870 has the same frame and engine housing...in fact I have an 860 also and it looks identical...except my 1180 has easy-turn and a few other options that add parts....plus it is 20cm wider with the auger/intake housing. My exact model number is: 1693656 - Ed

The 860, 970 and 1180 are in the same manual and similar.

The drawing for your machine is here:

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?

filename=heCBEN8brF5rE6CGk5kbp796Dq

 

It looks like you would have to separate the bucket from the tractor to access the clutch rod and break assembly (31).  There is the following note related to the spring (36).

 

Hook one end of spring (Ref. 36) over clutch rod assembly (Ref. 31)

between tabs and other end into slot in frame. Right rear bolt

Position belt stop (Ref. 42) 1/16 to 1/8 inch from belt when auger clutch is

engaged. Drive Group. idler arm (Ref. 25).

 

I’ve had similar clutch problems with mice nests in the tractor making the clutches hard to engage.  Changing the belt you would have notices one in the front but there could be one in the back corner.  You could flip it up, remove the bottom cover and look around.  Sticking parts under the dash or linkages could be hanging up the clutch travel.  If you were sold a belt that was too short then that could also cause the problem.   You could remove the belt and check the ease of travel of the clutch rod and work back from there up to the lever.

Was afraid of that....that can be a major project.  Any documentation out here specific to that?  Hoping I do not have to take apart the auger and worm drive, etc....just unhook the whole chute/bucket with everything still assembled inside.

   The split is more anguish and handwrenching in anticipation than hard in the doing.   The augers & gearbox stay with the bucket when it comes off.   You'll need a chair back or something else to put under the handles when the bucket comes off.   Unscrew the 2 side bolts on each side for the tractor and bucket mating, probably the nut under the chute worm, take off the auger belt and possbily a few other things - minor.  Just keep the parts together and it will be obvious where they go on reassembly. 

  The clutch issue would bother me more than the brake.  Not that it's hard.  It's just a puzzle and should not be difficult.  I'd go for flipping it on it's bucket before working on the brake.  Clear that then get the brake. 

Thanks for the help and suggestions...

By the clutch issue....you mean the auger drive lever that is too tight (has too much tension)?  I can live with the tension...but not if that is what is preventing the free-hand control from working.  I really want the free-hand control so I can keep the auger going while just holding down the drive control lever.

I have studied how the free-hand works and all the pieces/parts are there and working/engaging just like on my older 860 model.  I really think it is just the very high level of tension that is forcing the free-hand to disengage and popping the auger lever back up.

I even tried swapping the two springs controlling the auger lever with the ones on my 860.....only one was the same size and fit....swapped it and it made no difference.

Guess I'll have to drive to get at that clutch control arm you mentioned and see what else has tension on it....