You don't take out those pins until later in the process i.e. after the impeller assembly is out of the housing.
You seperate the front housing from the tractor base. There are two bolts at the forward part of the tractor base which when out will allow the tractor and intake housing to come apart. You'll probably have to disconnect part of the chute for the two to seperate.
The lower part of the tractor and intake housing usually connect together at the top with bolts and at the bottom with a bar on the tractor and two upside down U shapped arms on the intake housing. The upside down U's fit onto the bar. When you loosen the two tractor bolts and undo the chute connection the base will fall backwards. Put a chair back under the handlebars when you do the final loosening of the two tractor bolts and the chute.
Once the two are split you can get at the back of the intake housing. There will be a pulley at the back of the intake housing supported by a flange. (I'm not 100% positive and not going to check at the moment as I don't have much time.) The flange screws come out so you can get at the allan nuts at the back of the flange. With the pulley off and the allen screws out take off the flange. This is usually much easier said than done. The allen screws usually strip. You might try heat to get them out. With them backed off you'll probably find the flange won't budge because it's rust frozen onto the back part of the auger drive shaft. Heat it, wack it, try dual pickle forks. Whatever you've got to get it out. The last one I did I just cut it off after all else failed.
With the pulley off the flange and the flange off you can then do:
1. Unscrew the auger axle shaft (the one the rakes/augers turn on) supports from each side of the bucket sides.
2. You can then slide out the auger shaft which will have the impeller attached (the one with the two pins in it)
Chances are the back auger support bearing is rust frozen to the auger drive shaft so the whole impeller assembly will not slide out. You'll have to support the front on 2x4's and have the section with the bearing on the top. The 2x4's give room for the impeller assembly to move out of the case.
With the housing supported on 2x4's put liquid penetrating oil on the bearing shaft connection. After soaking for a while try hammering on the shaft end to make the impeller assembly move through the bearing. Use a brass hammer and something over the auger drive shaft end so it won't deform. (forgot: sand the shaft a bit to clean off rust so as the auger drive shaft moves toward the housing front it will pass through the bearing more easily.) Getting the auger drive shaft to pass through the bearing is hard to do but it will eventually move and the rakes drop to the floor. The whole assembly, rakes and all can them come out.
With the rakes and impeller assembly out take out the two shear pins from the rakes/axle. Slide the rakes out. Put one way to the right and one way to the left out of the way. I think you will have to buy a complete auger gearbox assembly and can't get a new gear casing so from here all that is left is to swap out the new assembly for the old assembly.
That will require you take off the impeller to install on the new assembly. The pins can be hammered out with a pin punch. If you don't have them you can get them at Sears wich makes removing them less difficult otherwise you'll have to figure out how to get them out i.e straight punch, nail or whatever. When out swap the impeller onto the new shaft and reassemble in reverse order.
The above may not be 100% correct for your machine but I'm falling asleep so won't check right now. For the breaking apart section you may have screws at the back of the bucket instead of at the top of the tractor base. What ever you have it's not complicated. For either you undo whatever screw arrangement is there along with the chute stuff and break the sections apart.
This message was modified Nov 26, 2010 by trouts2
