chefwong wrote:I still need to verify the body/condition of the unit.
It's a Honda 621, and the gas was left in there for 2 years. It has not been started since then.
I plan to do a physical check up, etc. I am kool with replacing belts and such.
Afterall, it's a old machine....
I'm probably going to end up replacing the carb on it instead of doing a soak & clean.
Just short of the varnish, is there anything else that might surprise me on a older machine.
I think the only issue that may present itself is the varnish
I'm thinking new carbs, paddles, scraper bar and drive belt.
Shake the auger shaft and look for play in the support brearings. Pull the start rope all the way out and check for fraying.
Save the money ($70-80) on a carb purchase and dip it. With the savings get a can of marine grease and a cheap chip brush for 40 cents and slime everything. You'd have enough left over for a spare plug, spare belt, spare paddles and spare scraper bar.
Under the side cover check tensioner and return springs, break bushings, and cover what you can get at with grease, springs, any metal part. Same for any other parts you can get in the engine area.
You could try loosening the muffler parts, wire bush them and put them back in with high temp anti-sieze. Break any bolts and screws you can get at like paddle bolts, recoil cover, auger flange support bolts. Spritz them with PB, marine grease or anti-sieze. It may be several years before you have to work on it and it’s nicer when you don’t have rust frozen bolts like on the paddles that strip or break.
Put rust neutralizer on any rust and cover with grease after or cover again with Navel Jell. Put some in a cup and paint it on with a chip brush. If in a protected area the Navel Jell with stay on for years. If an exposed area will stay on for 3-6 months. It looks bad but great protection. NASA uses it over better products because of its ability to stay on and protect for long periods.