Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

chefwong wrote:

I still need to verify the body/condition of the unit.
It's a Honda 621, and the gas was left in there for 2 years. It has not been started since then.

I plan to do a physical check up, etc. I am kool with replacing belts and such.
Afterall, it's a old machine....

I'm probably going to end up replacing the carb on it instead of doing a soak & clean.
Just short of the varnish, is there anything else that might surprise me on a older machine.
I think the only issue that may present itself is the varnish

I'm thinking new carbs, paddles, scraper bar and drive belt.

Shake the auger shaft and look for play in the support brearings.  Pull the start rope all the way out and check for fraying. 

Save the money ($70-80) on a carb purchase and dip it.  With the savings get a can of marine grease and a cheap chip brush for 40 cents and slime everything.  You'd have enough left over for a spare plug, spare belt, spare paddles and spare scraper bar. 

 

 Under the side cover check tensioner and return springs, break bushings, and cover what you can get at with grease, springs, any metal part.  Same for any other parts you can get in the engine area. 

   You could try loosening the muffler parts, wire bush them and put them back in with high temp anti-sieze.  Break any bolts and screws you can get at like paddle bolts, recoil cover, auger flange support bolts.   Spritz them with PB, marine grease or anti-sieze.  It may be several years before you have to work on it and it’s nicer when you don’t have rust frozen bolts like on the paddles that strip or break.

 

   Put rust neutralizer on any rust and cover with grease after or cover again with Navel Jell.  Put some in a cup and paint it on with a chip brush.  If in a protected area the Navel Jell with stay on for years.  If an exposed area will stay on for 3-6 months.  It looks bad but great protection.  NASA uses it over better products because of its ability to stay on and protect for long periods. 

I think the only difference with those newer 621 may be the center paddle that is V-shaped instead of flat, similar to your 520.    That's what I see on the parts diagram.

In my area, there's a very good condition 621, 7 years old, going for $425 with new rubbers and scrapers.  So your estimate is about right.  However, this one seems to be well taken care of.  I'm tempted to pick it up, just got find a reason to have two 621's laying around.  :)

The 621 with steel lined cylinders is a far cry from the HS 520.  I will have to try Trouts naval jelly tip.  Never heard that one before and rust is a constant problem here in New England.  

Did I read that right?  Navel Jel on paint?  Isn't that stuff a paint dissolver?

From the Guide to Eternal Happiness:

Rust inhibitor:

    

      If parts are showing signs of rust then apply rust preventerr/neutralizer/disolver.  It is good to apply rust prevention spray to any and all parts of the machine housing showing signs of rust; seams, bolts, skids, impeller housing, auger blades, handle bars, dash area and underneath dash, springs, linkages, - - any & all exposed metal.

 

 

 

·         These agents work differently on different metals, depth of rust, condition of rust, and temperature.  Sometimes they will get parts black (excellent protection), gray metal (coat quickly with Rustoleum or oil), or white (good protection which can last from weeks to several months depending on the metal and product).  Work rust down with repeated applications with light brushing.

·         Must for Rust spray available at Home Depot.  It works very well on some rust but not all.  It’s worth the money and easy to apply.

·         Harbor Freight sells a liquid bulk similar to Must for Rust. 

·         Navel Jell is a jell which can be applied with a ½ inch paintbrush.  It dissolves rust very well and leaves a nasty looking white film which is excellent long term protection.  This is a better rust dissolver than Must for Rust.  It leaves a better protective film than Must for Rust.  The white protective coating is ugly but will stay on the machine for several months even through rain. Google Navel Jell with NASA for a shock.

·         Rustoleum jell.  Similar to Navel Jell.

·         Once rust is worked down protect the base metal with occasional sprays of WD-40,  any light oil or Rustoleum.  Most rust removers can be painted over after a light brushing. 

·         Rustoleum rust inhibiting paint is very available in matching colors for snowblowers in small quantities.  Once rust is worked off it’s good to coat it with some protection.

Locite now has a "me too" product like Javel Jelly.

NASA test::

NASA had a problem with rust particles in the wind supply piping to their supersonic wind test facility.  Those were 24 inch pipes 15-20 feet long.  Rust particles from the pipes were damaging the paint on tested parts.  They tried three products to treat the rust.  Navel Jelley, Rust Converter and Stainless Steel High Temperature Coating.  All did a suitable job.  The SSHTC was eliminated as it required a 15 minute high temperature cure.  Rust Converter also OK but Naval Jelly was fount to last longer, cheap and easy to apply with a brush (same for Rust Converter).  Because Navel Jelly left behind a thin film and laster for 4 months it was chosen.  

     NASA was wiping the Navel Jelly and getting a thin white protective layer.  If you don't clean after applying it the coating will stay on longer outdoors.  On some old paints that are rusted and dried like a rusted 70's white Tecumseh engine cowlings and carb covers the coating will sometimes remove the rust and brown stain in the paint also.  Sometimes it will cause some of the dissolved rust which blackens to lightly stain the paint but that generally looks better than the rust. 

Trouts,

Any experience with Weatherpruf after rust has been treated or before it starts?  https://secure.concentric.com/kanolabs.com/kanois.html#anchor31098

They also make a rust remover product called Exrust. These are the same people that make Kroil so they have some street creds.

Bill_H wrote:

   Never tried Weatherpruf, too expensive versus other things.  The first protection after de-rusting is a coat of Rustoleum.  I use WD-40 as a fogger but mostly use any oil, or grease with a paintbrush and coat any exposed metal.  The main protection is keeping machines dry.  For me that's a number of machines outside covered with tarps, grill covers, and automobile covers.  Auto covers are super.  Usually great material, durable and big enough to cover a few machines; and cheap, $10 to $15 for a decent material cover.  Their only drawback is colors.  I use a lot of big camo tarps which are much better than blue or green.  The camo hides things a little.

   The product I'd like to find again is Future Floor Wax.  It was a clear liquid you could spray, wipe or sponge it on leaving a thick coat that was about the thickness of a few sheets of paper.  Great stuff.  People put it on their vinal and sheet metal siding.  I used to spray it on the lower sides of my car and wheel well area. 

trouts2 wrote:
It is still available, just renamed. Per the SC Johnson web site:
"The Future® Floor Polish product was renamed under the Pledge® brand in November of 2007. It is now Pledge® Premium Finish with Future® Shine. Don't worry – it is still the same great Future® formula, just a new name and still provides that durable, long lasting shine."

If all else fails, Amazon has it.

Bill_H,

    Thanks, I'll try the stores and see what I come up with.  It's been many years since I last used it.