Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I just recently acquired a lightly used Honda HS724WA Snowblower.  I plan to attack all areas that I can identify before winter comes. I have some ~noob~ questions as this is my first 2 stage machine, so please excuse some of the terminology

 

-       Oil Change

-       Bearing it’s used and not knowing storage history, I’m planning to remove the carburetor and give it a thorough cleaning

-       1^st order of attack. Weathersealing. I plan to use my outdoor sealant (Weatherpruf) on the exterior chassis/chute as well as the interior.

-       The Auger Blades is missing some paint. I assume this is normal ?

I have some leftover Black Rustoleum Paint leftover from this summers wrought iron paint. Should I hand paint the Augers ? If so, I plan to do this before I apply the ~sealant~

 

-       I do not see any Zerks Fittings on my Auger. If anyone can advise in laymens terms where I need to feed Grease in, that would be superb.

 

-       The Chute Control Rod,  Chute Drive Gear. It is somewhat oxidized/rusted/stained  in some places. I’m going to assume it was from winter salt, etc. I don’t intend to take metal polish to this cause it’s just more cosmetics. From a functional standpoint, I’m thinking a wipedown of it Weathpruf again or just AeroKroil or straight 30Wt.

 

-       Depending on lube points, it will either get SuperLube or a pretreatment of Wurth HHS lube and then a dab of SuberLube.

 

-       The Wheel Axle is most def. rusty. I plan to sand, seal with Weatherpruf, and Grease the Exterior. May spend the big bucks and buy for me a very limited application – marine grade antisieze when I put the wheels back.

 - The Inside of the Discharge Deflector, very minor nick on edges of the bucket and straight *horizontal* lines where the impeller is is missing pain. So what color code is Honda Red ;-)

 

For the record, never been a fan of white Lithium in spray or can.

 

Last but not least, make sure the tires at factory OEM spec of 8 PSI with nitrogen, and some matching Honda Valve Stem Caps ;-)

aa35
Not trying to cause any concerns for anyone.  Your doing the right thing.  As long as a person checks to make sure the auger is free on the shaft there is no cause for worry.  Some people just aren't aware that checking the free spin is important.  I would agree with you about the coupler breaking before the shaft.  But if the auger is seized to the shaft.  Then there is no way for the auger to decouple if you will from the gear box shaft.  You drag in a frozen newspaper and jamb the auger in the housing and in can't free spin on the shaft.  All the torque coming out of the gear box is simply going to break the weakest point.  Which is the shaft where the hole is drilled for the coupling.  In a standard gear box on other models you will tear the teeth off the bronze gear in the box.  I was quite surprised by the size of the Honda gear box shaft.  It's so much smaller the the shaft on older Ariens blowers.  But Honda's are hybrids in my opinion.  They are built pretty tough. Expensive as all get out. But nice. 

I liked the fact that you could remove the gear box and auger assembly without having to pull the impeller and shaft as well.  One pin behind the gear box releases it from the impeller shaft, great idea.

The only issue I have is with their skid placement.  Having them behind the cutting edge just doesn't make sense to me.  Once your cutting edge has already slammed into the edge of a slab of concrete in a sidewalk or driveway. Having the skids ride over it after wards is no help at all. I realize that you can keep the edge up off the surface with the skids .  But having to leave a layer of snow on the surface isn't the answer.

I would agree that you don't need to crank down of the sheer bolts.  Most have locking nuts so just need to tighten them down onto the auger and give them another 1/4 to 1/2 a turn.

Interesting Read JTrebor. I have not looked at it that thoroughly as my initial impression was....that's going to be a spring/summer project on lubing up the shaft, but if I don't have to GUT the beast to remove the auger, then maybe it will be on the plan of attack before winter...

Without putting much thought, what is the best way to TIP the unit forward to get access to to support the unit to remove the wheel axle. I have not looked it thoroughly yet, but for anyone familiar with the unit, care to share.

chefwong
I usually just tip the blower forward up onto the housing alittle. And stick a piece of 4 x 6" lumber underneath the belly pan. Then slowly lower the blower back down onto it.  It will usually lift the blower off the ground just enough to get the wheels off.  You may have to add another piece of lumber ( under the 4 x 6 )
if it's not off the ground.  Also make sure you get the piece of lumber far enough forward.  So you don't bend the belly pan.  I wouldn't use a piece of 4 x 4
I don't think it's wide enough.  You'll have to much weight on that 4" surface and if you don't have it far enough forward you will bend the belly pan when you start to lower it.
All the weight  ends up on the front corner on the lumber when you first start to lower it. Getting it way forward is the key.  Out beyond the pan is the best.

jrtrebor wrote:

The Honda snowblower is designed for the Japanese market and it shows, the low handlebars height and the rear of bucket skids.  I never understood until I saw the videos.  It seems that it was made for gravel drives with layer of base snow, not so for US concrete or black top driveways.  The rear skids actually have relatively large surface area to allow float over snow, as opposed to digging in and getting close to pavement.  When I first got the snowblower, I had to raise the bucket to allow 1/4" layer of snow because I couldn't bear to see those skids dragging on high friction textured concrete.  Kinda like driving a snowmobile across clean street, you sure don't want to have those front skis dragging on the pavement any longer than necessary.

I dunno about you guys, but my 1132 came with both, rear and side skids. All of the recent machines I've looked at, were the same.

If you bought a 1132 new in the US, you have to purchase the side skids and drill holes on the sides of the bucket.  I think Canadian model may have both installed new.  I now have both side and rear skids, with the rear 1/8" higher than the sides.

drifter wrote:

I just picked up my new to me 2008 HS928TA and it only has the rear skid shoes. I have not had a chance to use it in snow yet and was wondering if it's worth installing the side skid shoes? My only thought on not doing this is it appears that this would not allow you to use the high setting on the bucket. This position pushes the scraper blade right down on the surface and allows the scraper to get under the hardpack. It looks like the side mounted skids shoes would prevent the bucket/scraper blade from achieving this position. aa335: Can you clarify this?

Care to share which skid setup is more applicable in the following conditions
Note: my 724  came with both sides and rear

• Pavers
• Gravel
• Flat Concrete

Maybe it was the rear skids that was throwing me off, but when I was just messing around with the movement, I was like boy, this must be a chore on concrete cause it had limited tipping up, and I said to myself I would just use the single stager till it got to the point where I was ~forced~ to need the 2 stager. Being familiar with the 1 stager and it's mechanics, I could throw that thing around with 1 hand .....make tight turns, walk real fast.

FrankMA wrote:
You are correct, the side skids will actually make the scraper blade go up higher from the pavement when you put the snowblower in scraper mode.  But you still retain the additional weight put on the bucket to prevent riding up on snow.

chefwong wrote:
Here's my quick run down of preference.

Pavers -  Single stage rubber paddles mainly.  2 stage use only on heavy snow with rear mounted skids.  Make sure your side skids up high or higher than the rear skids.

Gravel - 2 stage with only rear skids.  Set your skids so that you got good clearance between the pavement and the scraper bar, or you will pick up stones and hurl it.

Flat concrete - a combination of both side and rear skids. My current set up is side skids, with rear skids 1/8 or 1/4" higher than the side.  I run my snowblower hanging over the curb so the rear skids prevent the bucket from dropping.  :)