Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I have a 10 year old single stage snowblower that's undergoing a full restoration this winter. I got the snowblower bucket disassembled from the chassis and engine. The bucket has been completely stripped down to bare metal. I want good adhesion and abrasion resistance and I'm willing to put in the time and money to get the best paint job that I can do myself without sending out.

What do you guys recommend for primer and paint? Any preparation techniques in addition to stripping down to bare metal and roughing up the surface?

chefwong wrote:
That metal bar is sort of like a kick stand.  It's for tipping the snowblower back and draining the oil from the engine.  I also use it to keep the bucket off the ground after snowblowing.

aa335
Actually the only reason I use the triangle marking is to give me a heads up as to how close I'm getting to the stop point.
I blow some city sidewalks for a merchant.  It's an L shaped walk at an intersection with two cross walk ramps. So there are a lot of places I can't blow snow when clearing the walks. Like into the streets. You aren't allowed to do that. I can only put it in a pile on the grass between the walk and the street.  Or in piles at the corners.
 I'm constantly moving and never stop to make chute or deflector adjustments.  Sometimes I may be tuning
the blower around while blowing snow.  So the triangle helps me know in advance where I'm at. 
While I'm watching the pavement then moving the chute direction then the snow angle.  So I'm not blowing into the street or over a pile into the street.  Or on to a parked car or knocking down some sweet old lady and covering up her dog.  With the joy stick I sometimes have a lot of things going on at once.

Vac type oil container for me for OPE equipment. For most of my cars, depending on application or frequency of use, I still do the pan bolt method...
But yes, the vac drains get 99% and it's no MESS. Just even looking at my 724 and they made a overhand drip edge (metal bent 90 degrees), I yesterday did a oil change on that via the vac method.
Not a drip on the floor...

Definately something worth investing

My car doesn't have a dipstick so the vac method is out.  Still do the old fashion drain through the oil pan.  As careful as I can be, there is always at least 3 drops landing on the floor.  Arggh.

jrtrebor wrote:

What is the best type of auto seat motor to use for this type of application.  I'm tired of bending over to turn my snowblower chute and I would like to give this idea a try.

The snowblower bucket painting is underway.  Put on a primer coat last night.  Today, I just put on the first coat of black paint, Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy.  Looking good so far.

Underdog
Don't know that there is a "best type" of seat motor to use.  It's more about finding one that will work and adapt easily to your blower.  Don't know what type you have. Most if not all
have some sort of crank to turn the chute.  You will need at least one universal joint in the connection between the motor and the drive screw.  Figuring out where and how to mount the motor is the first and most complicated step.  The seat motor has to have some type of mounting points that you can use to mount it on your blower.  What kind of blower do you have?

I did price out paint from a body shop last year. It was $25 for a pint but I have no sprayer. You can also have the auto body shop custom mix the colors and put them in a spray can (rattle can) for about $25.00.  That still seems pricey.

$25 is too much for paint, and I don't have a sprayer.  I got everything including primer and paint in cans for less than $25 already.  I got the appliance epoxy which seems pretty hard and durable.  Hopefully it doesn't chip off too easily

I know a guy with a fiberglass shop.... He sprays 85 percent of his coats with the cheapie guns from Harbor freight...... He likes the ones that use the Dixie Cups for small jobs and small clean up.. Friiy