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aa335


Joined: Nov 29, 2008
Points: 2434

Repainting a snowblower bucket
Original Message   Oct 5, 2010 10:49 pm
I have a 10 year old single stage snowblower that's undergoing a full restoration this winter. I got the snowblower bucket disassembled from the chassis and engine. The bucket has been completely stripped down to bare metal. I want good adhesion and abrasion resistance and I'm willing to put in the time and money to get the best paint job that I can do myself without sending out.

What do you guys recommend for primer and paint? Any preparation techniques in addition to stripping down to bare metal and roughing up the surface?
Replies: 32 - 41 of 68Next page of topicsPreviousNextNext page of topicsAllView as Outline
chefwong


Joined: Dec 18, 2004
Points: 175

Re: Repainting a snowblower bucket
Reply #32   Nov 5, 2010 9:46 am
120 Grit
220 Grit
Nikkens 1000 Grit
Nikklens 1500 Grit
Nikeens 2000 Grit
My preferred Metal Polish - Heavy Metal Polish Green Cut
Followed by their Blue Cut

Clear Coat Twice Per Season. Once before and Once After.


It will be truly something special ;-)
jrtrebor


Location: Michigan - 3 hours north of Chicago on the lake
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Points: 539

Re: Repainting a snowblower bucket
Reply #33   Nov 5, 2010 8:07 pm
Here is a photo of my blower housing.  Using the Seam Sealer, primer and paint.
I also lined the housing with a piece of stainless steel and inside the impeller housing as well.
Lengthened the impeller blades with weld and then ground them to shape.
I now have only a 1/16 + clearance in the housing.
Really curious to see how that effects the blowing capabilities especially with the wet slushy stuff.
This is an Ariens 32" bucket on a Model 924084 / 1032 blower.




This message was modified Nov 5, 2010 by jrtrebor
aa335


Joined: Nov 29, 2008
Points: 2434

Re: Repainting a snowblower bucket
Reply #34   Nov 5, 2010 8:21 pm
Nice work, I like that stainless steel lining.
jrtrebor


Location: Michigan - 3 hours north of Chicago on the lake
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Points: 539

Re: Repainting a snowblower bucket
Reply #35   Nov 5, 2010 8:41 pm
A few other modifications I've made ( I get carried away sometimes with ideas)
Adapted power seat screw motors for moving the deflector and rotating the chute.
Both movements are controlled by a little 4-way joystick located on the right handle.
The system is powered by a 12v scooter battery which hangs in a bag below
the control panel.  It has a plug so I can just remove it and take it inside to charge.
Although last year here in Mi. It didn't leave the blower to be charged until
March.  And I only took it in to charge it because I thought I should.
It hadn't shown signs of getting weak at all.
I was amazed at that.
Also took off the old rounded deflector and made a new one with
square corners







This message was modified Nov 5, 2010 by jrtrebor
aa335


Joined: Nov 29, 2008
Points: 2434

Re: Repainting a snowblower bucket
Reply #36   Nov 6, 2010 12:15 am
Very nice work.  The chute deflector motor set up looks highly similar to the new Deere 1330SE. 

By the way, what's the yellow triangle on the chute?
This message was modified Nov 6, 2010 by aa335
Shryp


Location: Cleveland, OH
Joined: Jul 26, 2010
Points: 532

Re: Repainting a snowblower bucket
Reply #37   Nov 6, 2010 4:39 am
aa335 wrote:
Very nice work.  The chute deflector motor set up looks highly similar to the new Deere 1330SE. 

By the way, what's the yellow triangle on the chute?

He uses the triangle to judge how far the deflector can move because the seat motors don't have limiters and he doesn't want to break it.

I remember seeing a video on youtube about hit setup a while ago.
GtWtNorth


https://t.me/pump_upp

Location: https://t.me/pump_upp
Joined: Nov 16, 2008
Points: 264

Re: Repainting a snowblower bucket
Reply #38   Nov 6, 2010 10:20 am
jrtrebor, nice job on the painting, how did you fasten the stainless into the housing? Those seat motors look nice & compact & plenty powerful. What car are they from & do they turn fast enough?
I have a larger joystack from an arcade game that I will hook up to both motors.

chefwong, please don't take this the wrong way, but unless you are building a show (not snow) machine, 1000 & 2000 grit sounds like way overkill. Aren't you giving yourself a lot of work for minimal return.

Cheers



https://t.me/pump_upp
aa335


Joined: Nov 29, 2008
Points: 2434

Re: Repainting a snowblower bucket
Reply #39   Nov 6, 2010 11:15 am
chefwong wrote:
120 Grit
220 Grit
Nikkens 1000 Grit
Nikklens 1500 Grit
Nikeens 2000 Grit
My preferred Metal Polish - Heavy Metal Polish Green Cut
Followed by their Blue Cut

Clear Coat Twice Per Season. Once before and Once After.


It will be truly something special ;-)


Somehow I suspect these sandpaper are expensive and are made in Europe. Never heard of Nikklens before but it sure sounds expensive.
jrtrebor


Location: Michigan - 3 hours north of Chicago on the lake
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Points: 539

Re: Repainting a snowblower bucket
Reply #40   Nov 6, 2010 8:49 pm
aa335
The other poster is correct.  It gives me a visual reference on how far up the deflector can go.
Here is a link to the video that I made last year.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwbfkLuhdhw
This message was modified Nov 6, 2010 by jrtrebor
jrtrebor


Location: Michigan - 3 hours north of Chicago on the lake
Joined: Feb 10, 2010
Points: 539

Re: Repainting a snowblower bucket
Reply #41   Nov 6, 2010 9:15 pm
GtWtNorth
I drilled 1/4 " holes in the blower housing. And then Plugged welded the stainless to the housing from the back side.  That way I didn't have to use stainless wire or do any sanding on the stainless to smooth out any welds. Plug welding it also allowed me to get the sheet welded in place good and tight against the housing.  The heat did discolor the stainless at all the weld points.  So I had to use some 400 grit paper to remove them.  After that I bead blasted the entire piece.  Before I welded it in place I primed the steel behind it real well with Red Oxide primer and ran a bead of seam sealer along the edges of the hole cut out and the sides of the sheet.  I didn't want any water getting between the two pieces of metal.  Not only because of rust forming, but I was concerned that if enough water got trapped and froze it could, (I thought) possibly cause the stainless to bulge or pucker out in places. That would not be good.

I don't know what kind of car they came out of.  I found a seat laying in the bed of a pick up which had the two motors in it.  Someone did all the heavy work taking the seats out of something.  I just had to remove the motors and wiring.  I think the speed they turn is just about right. Not to slow and not to fast.
This message was modified Nov 6, 2010 by jrtrebor
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