Around the world the true man, the sage, seeks wisdom and happiness. Life flows by faster than the glimpse of a white horse seen charging past a crack in the door. The lowly, slothful, scum masses have little chance to smile with raised arms into the bright face of God, know the Way or be as content as the fat bellied Buddha. It's pure arrogance for the small man to ponder the high and noble.
But there's hope for the clean, pious and virtuous. You to can experience Zen, Fahrvergnügen and the contentment of the great masters. Release yourself from your trials, study the Guide below well which if studied intently day and night will bring you home. You can transform your utter insignificance to become Snowman.
I leave you now with the Guide. Peace.
Maintenance info:
All snowblowers are sold with marketing names usually in large colored print on the bucket or dash of machines. The marketing names are generic names used over many years. Snowblowers also have a factory model and serial number generally found on the back base of tractor section (the base where the wheels are located). The factory number specifically identifies a snowblower. Use the factory model number and serial number at the company website to get a manual.
MTD site for manuals:
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/public/list.jsp
Ariens site for manuals:
http://apache.ariens.com/cgibin/ctrg0005?SESSIONID=28702a3ad72bf4c0aa733c4cb825206b&site=arienss
Toro site for manuals:
https://homeownersolutions.toro.com/portal/server.pt?space=CommunityPage&cached=true&parentname=CommunityPage&parentid=1&in_hi_userid=19462&
control=SetCommunity&CommunityID=214&PageID=238#productDetailsPage
Tecumseh site for manuals:
http://www.outdoordistributors.com/Tecumseh/Tecumsehpartslists.html
There is a tag on the side of the engine which will have the factory model number.
Murray site for manuals:
http://www.partsandservice.com/
If you are not familiar with snowblowers go to my website at:
www.kedawei.com/snowblower.htm
Gas:
Gas related issues are the biggest problems in non-performance. Avoid problems by simple care and maintenance. Most of the things mentioned below can be applied to all yard equipment like mowers and trimmers.
The issue is gas evaporates leaving a thin film on carburetor internal parts blocking proper flow of gas. That will make the engine difficult to start and run properly. Maintenance can be ignored for a few years as layers build up. How quick buildup happens depends on storage conditions. Problems can be avoided by draining the carburetor of gas during long periods of non-use (months) and off-season storage.
- Buy gas in small quantities so you are always using fresh gas.
- Turn off the gas line if a gas shutoff is provided (usually under the tank).
- If the gas tank does not have a shutoff then drain tank gas with a siphon. A hand pump siphon can be purchased for about three dollars and good to have available.
- Once the tank is empty run the engine until it stops which will drain gas from the carburetor bowl (sits under the carb body).
- Some carburetors come with a drain button at the bottom of the carb bowl. If no push button, loosen the nut (not screw) on the bottom of the bowl slightly and let the gas run out. Catch the gas in a cup.
- Gas stabilizers can be used like Stable but the best insurance is to drain gas from the system. Given a hot storage location even stabilizers will evaporate.
- If you start the season with fresh gas then you won’t have to be concerned about long layovers of non-use i.e. two to three months.
- Storage conditions affect the rate of evaporation of gas for example cool garage under a house or shed out in the sun which gets to 120 degrees in summer.
Starting, Manual:
Throttle to 3/4 speed.
1-3 primes of the push button on the cowling. If there is a button on the side of the carburetor heater box then; push in the button and pull the starter rope through one compression cycle. That will pull gas from the carburetor bowl into the carburetor throat.
Choke full on.
After starting reduce the engine speed quickly and progressively click back the choke until fully warm – about 5 minutes. It will be easier and more reliable to start in the winter. The snowblower carburetors are designed for winter operation.
It will start most often on the first pull once you get to know your machine. If it gets to four something is wrong. It might be too much prime depending on the machine. Wait a minute, re-prime once and open the choke a notch or two (less choke).
If it becomes very difficult like 6 pulls stop and investigate. Take out the spark plug to see if it’s wet. If it’s wet it’s flooded and you could pull all day and it won’t start. Set the plug aside to dry out. If it’s dry it’s not getting enough gas to start. More primes and choke are necessary or worse case start thinking about a gas blockage either in the gas line or carburetor.
Winter engines do not have an air cleaner and no auto-choke. They depend on the prime for the initial start but flood easily. Once you get to know your snowblower it will start easily.
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Starting, Electric start:
Setup to start as above. Plug in a heavy line cord to the receptacle on the top of the engine housing. Press the button on top for a 5 seconds max. The engine should start. If it does not start by the second attempt check that the gas line is open, speed and choke are set and the carburetor primed. It should start quickly with electric start. If it does not start check the plug as described above. Note: Engaging the electric start for long periods will quickly burn out a starter. Only engage the starter for a few seconds which should be enough to get any engine in good shape started. After a few attempts let the starter cool off.
Will not start:
· Check gas level and fuel on off switch if fitted.
· Remove plug to check if wet (flooded). If wet let the machine dry for 20 minutes.
· If dry check gas, use more primes and more choke.
· Check spark. Remove plug, hold close to metal, and pull the starter rope. A spark should jump from the plug to metal.
· Do not hold the electric start on for a long time. If the engine does not start quickly something is wrong and running the starter for long periods will burn it out. The starters are very powerful and heat up quickly and very expensive to replace.
Using the snowblower:
Throw snow at a rate that is comfortable for the engine and collector augers. Don’t plow into big piles. Slow down on the big heavy piles so the augers can take in snow and toss it without struggling. If it’s still struggling slow down a speed or take a thinner cut. A snowblower can do the struggling but over time you’ll wear out components quickly. If you want it to last for many years use it at a sensible rate.
Learn to guide the machine around. Do not pick it up by the handles. If you want to make a very tight turn guide it at a moderately slow speed. A higher speed will force you into a bigger arc. Don’t stop the machine and turn if possible, always try to guide it at a slow speed.
Running Rough:
Tecumseh engines on snowblowers are notorious for roughness. The carbs are jetted and tuned for full power under load where they should run their best. Newer carbs come with non-adjustable jets and tend to run lean due to EPA regulations. Roughness, sputtering and backfiring are common with these carbs.
The carbs have an open throat, there is no air filter on a Tecumseh snow engine. There is a tremendous rush of air into the carb. That can be verified by putting your hand close to the exhaust stream and feeling the intensity. All that air is rushing through the open carb throat. At times snow or water droplets can be sucked into the air stream causing the engine to sputter as they pass. Other than that the air going into a carb should be very clean unlike summer lawnmower conditions. After warm up and blowing snow the engine should smooth out.
In season maintenance.
· Check engine oil at least every second use (old engine), every 5 hours (new engine). Never overfill.
· Fog machine with oil or wax the snowblower at the start of the season to help keep snow and water off the machine (especially in the area of the barrel/round part by the chute.
· Always use fresh gas. Buy gas one gallon at a time to keep gas fresh.
· Never pour gas from the bottom of the refill tank. There are dregs in most tanks.
· If the gas tank has a shutoff valve under the tank close it after use.
· Brush off snow after use to prevent puddling and rust. An old broom or car cleaning scraper with a brush are useful.
· Occasionally spray or oil all bolts, seams, and moving parts. Use PB Blaster, WD-40, liquid or paste grease or any oil like 5-30. Put oil or grease in a cup and apply with a one inch paintbrush. Buy a small tub of grease (see below).
· Occasional spray on rust preventor/inhibitor to parts that do not have paint like any chipped paint, the skid bolts, and inside the bucket and chute. See Rust inhibitor below.
· Apply oil inside the chute between the rim of the base and the chute. Drip oil on the mating parts so it will seep down.
· Never leave snow inside the impeller or auger housing area. It can freeze or lock the impeller or blades usually causing a belt to come off. If warm the melt will puddle and cause rust.
Good oils are:
- PB Blaster for penetration of rusted bolts and seams. Home Depot or most hardware stores.
- WD-40 for general fogging of all parts. Not a great penetrator but better than nothing.
- Liquid grease. Any marine grease for moving parts. Marine grease is water proof. Put in a can and use a 1 inch paint brush for easy application. Keep the brush with the grease. Wallmart.
- White Lithium spray grease, good for hard to reach places. Sticks well. Wallmart.
- Paste grease is great for moving parts, on bolts, anywhere to prevent rust. Apply with a paintbrush. Wallmart. LubriMatic is a marine grease available at car parts places.
- Grease for auger gearbox. . L2 and L3 Ariens grease is excellent. 00 grease is good. 90 weight EP (Extra Presssure) rated liquid grease 5GL. 90-140 grease with EP rating.
- For applying oils, liquid grease and paste grease use a cheap under a dollar ½ to 1 inch paintbrush. Cut the ends to stiffen up the brush and keep it with the lubricants with the tip wrapped in a plastic baggie.
- Kroil, an effective penetrate and rust buster is expensive and hard to find but worth the effort and money. Google Kroil.
Rust inhibitor:
If parts are showing signs of rust then apply rust preventerr/neutralizer. It is good to apply rust prevention spray to any and all parts of the machine housing showing signs of rust; seams, bolts, skids, impeller housing, auger blades, handle bars, dash area and underneath dash, springs, linkages, - - everything.
· These agents work differently on different metals, depth of rust, condition of rust, and temperature. Sometimes they will get parts black (excellent protection), gray metal (coat quickly with Rustoleum or oil), or white (good protection which can last from weeks to several months depending on the metal and product). Work rust down with repeated applications with light brushing.
· Must for Rust spray available at Home Depot. It works very well on some rust but not all. It’s worth the money and easy to apply.
· Harbor Freight sells a liquid similar to Must for Rust.
· Navel Jell is a jell which can be applied with a ½ inch paintbrush. It dissolves rust very well and leaves a nasty looking white film which is excellent long term protection. This is a better rust dissolver than Must for Rust. It leaves a better protective film than Must for Rust. The white protective coating is ugly but will stay on the machine for several months even through rain. Google Navel Jell with NASA for a shock.
· Rustoleum jell. Similar to Navel Jell.
· Once rust is worked down protect the base metal with occasional sprays of WD-40, any light oil or Rustoleum. Most rust removers can be painted over after a light brushing.
· Rustoleum rust inhibiting paint is very available in matching colors for snowblowers in small quantities. Once rust is worked off it’s good to coat it with some protection.
Off season maintenance for a trouble and maintenance free winter.
· ENGINE
· Drain the gas tank. Do not depend on stabilizers. Can be drained through the carburetor bowl. Remove bowl nut and catch gas into a container. Some bowls have a button on the bottom to drain gas. Have a cup handy.
· Run the engine until all gas is used. That drains the carburetor bowl.
· Turn the choke to full on which will close the internal butterfly.
· Change engine oil. Use 5-30 weight natural or synthetic but good quality. A quart milk carton can be cut in half and used to route old oil from the outlet into funnel and waste container. Change close to the end of the season. There are combustion products in the oil and the longer the oil sits the more the sledge will compact making it tougher to remove.
· Inspect or change spark plug. If a clean brown/gray ash it can stay. Wire brush the tip.
· Put a table spoon of oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Pull the cord a few times to coat the cylinder walls. Pull the start cord lightly until the most pressure is felt. That will close the valves to air and put the piston at the top of the cylinder.
· Check the pull rope for fraying.
· SNOWBLOWER BODY
· Wash the body with water and soap.
· Fog the body with WD-40 or any spray oil.
· Lubricate all moving, non-moving parts like bolts and threads, any place where metal meets and joints formed where water can be captured, and seams.
· Apply rust preventer/inhibitor to any exposed rusted parts with an extra shot into seams, joints, chute/hood joint, top of skid/housing seam.
· Also, walk around the machine with a can of paste grease and paintbrush and hit all nuts, control lever joints, nuts, especially skid bolts, everything (good to hit with a touch of PB-Blaster first).
· BELT AREA
· Remove the belt cover and check the belts cracks or fraying. Oil anything that moves and springs. There’s usually roller bearing in the back of the intake housing supporting the auger drive shaft. On the tractor side there can be springs, tensioners and engagements. It depends on the make and model but if it moves, grease it. While the cover is off put a few drops of liquid grease or oil above the crankshaft and let it seep into the seal area. Pull the start rope to turn the crank. Same for the cam pulley (PTO) if the engine has one.
· INTAKE HOUSING
· Check auger gearbox case for any grease leaks by running your finger around the case seam. Check auger gearbox level, refill with EP (Extra Pressure) grease. Top off with any quality 90 weight EP rated grease. Use 00 if available, better is Ariens L2 or L3.
· Grease zerk fittings, brush grease into exposed auger axle areas and axle hub areas. Note: remove the shear pins and spin the auger blades for better coverage.
· Check skids and scraper bar for wear. The skids and scraper bar are inexpensive and meant to take the brunt of wear. Oil above the skids so oil seeps behind the plate. Oil skid bolts.
· CHUTE
· Grease between the chute and top of the intake housing outlet. Let oil or liquid grease run between the mating parts. Turn the chute crank to spread the grease.
· Grease the hood sides, bolts and hinge on both sides (depends on model).
· Grease chute universals, worm and gears (depends on model).
· TRACTOR INTERNALS
· (Every second year at a minimum). Stand the machine on its bucket and remove the bottom tractor panel. Grease all parts inside with marine grease, oil chain then grease, grease and oil all moving parts, movements, springs and bearings. Get under pulleys and drive plates (what’s there depends on the make and model). Use a long thin brush or spray grease. Touch roll pins with Kroil or PB-Blaster. Put the shifter in reverse and lean the hex shaft with a paper towel and carb cleaner. Move the shifter to the fastest speed and get the other side. When done apply a light coat of paste grease on the hex shaft and move the shifter from full forward to full reverse.
· (Every second year).Remove the wheels and grease the axle to prevent hubs rust locking to the axles.
· STORAGE
· Storage should be in a dry place which does not get overly hot. If outdoors, covered so rain does not splash up under the cover. Grill covers make a good snowblower cover. An intake housing should rest on a board and not on the ground. The machine should be moved a few times so the tires are not always resting on the same spot. If stored in a shed be sure not to leave gas in the tank or bowl even with Stable.
· Double check your manual as a head check for any specific maintenance points.
· NEW ENGINE BREAKIN
The factory has recommendations of first oil change 10 hours and 50 thereafter. A better schedule is 5 hours and every 20 thereafter in snowblower service. For a snowblower oil should be changed every end of season. If it goes beyond 20 it will not be an issue.
In general:
· Change the oil every season – essential for long life. Should be done as soon as possible after the season. (See oil change info above). Run the engine until pretty hot to get the sledge off the crankcase bottom and into the oil. If you get clear lighter colored gray black oil with a streak of black oil then there’s sludge buildup still in the bottom of the crankcase. You can run a quart of very cheap oil through and drain it to get the sledge out after you did the first oil change. You can also “tank”
· Check oil every second use.
· Apply oil to parts – often
· Apply rust preventor – often.
· Open the tractor area every two years, degrease, clean and re-grease.
· Check the auger gearbox grease level every second season. Check for leaks with your finger each year. Best done in the summer.
· Always care about the gas. Drain the bowl if the machine will be idle for over a month. Definitely drain the tank and bowl at the end of each season.
Skid and scraper height determine how close to the ground the snowblower will pick up snow. If set too low and the auger blades will scrape which is very bad as it puts extreme pressure on the gearbox. Too high and snow will not be completely picked up. Adjust for your driveway conditions. If you have a bumpy driveway then when the skids are on a low point the auger blade will scrape. Adjust your clearing to avoid high spots being in the center of the intake housing. Travel over the high spots with the skids.
The scraper bar at the bottom of the intake housing and the skids are meant to wear away and be replaced. Keeping the wear on these parts will preserve the rest of the machine.
Let the snowblower chew and throw snow at a comfortable rate. By not overtaxing the machine it will be capable of many years of use.
David Kirkpatrick
Ke Dawei
http://www.kedawei.com
http://www.kedawei.com/snowblower.htm
