Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I have a 10 year old single stage snowblower that's undergoing a full restoration this winter. I got the snowblower bucket disassembled from the chassis and engine. The bucket has been completely stripped down to bare metal. I want good adhesion and abrasion resistance and I'm willing to put in the time and money to get the best paint job that I can do myself without sending out.

What do you guys recommend for primer and paint? Any preparation techniques in addition to stripping down to bare metal and roughing up the surface?

Nice work, I like that stainless steel lining.

Very nice work.  The chute deflector motor set up looks highly similar to the new Deere 1330SE. 

By the way, what's the yellow triangle on the chute?

aa335 wrote:
He uses the triangle to judge how far the deflector can move because the seat motors don't have limiters and he doesn't want to break it.

I remember seeing a video on youtube about hit setup a while ago.

jrtrebor, nice job on the painting, how did you fasten the stainless into the housing? Those seat motors look nice & compact & plenty powerful. What car are they from & do they turn fast enough?
I have a larger joystack from an arcade game that I will hook up to both motors.

chefwong, please don't take this the wrong way, but unless you are building a show (not snow) machine, 1000 & 2000 grit sounds like way overkill. Aren't you giving yourself a lot of work for minimal return.

Cheers

chefwong wrote:

Somehow I suspect these sandpaper are expensive and are made in Europe. Never heard of Nikklens before but it sure sounds expensive.

aa335
The other poster is correct.  It gives me a visual reference on how far up the deflector can go.
Here is a link to the video that I made last year.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwbfkLuhdhw

GtWtNorth
I drilled 1/4 " holes in the blower housing. And then Plugged welded the stainless to the housing from the back side.  That way I didn't have to use stainless wire or do any sanding on the stainless to smooth out any welds. Plug welding it also allowed me to get the sheet welded in place good and tight against the housing.  The heat did discolor the stainless at all the weld points.  So I had to use some 400 grit paper to remove them.  After that I bead blasted the entire piece.  Before I welded it in place I primed the steel behind it real well with Red Oxide primer and ran a bead of seam sealer along the edges of the hole cut out and the sides of the sheet.  I didn't want any water getting between the two pieces of metal.  Not only because of rust forming, but I was concerned that if enough water got trapped and froze it could, (I thought) possibly cause the stainless to bulge or pucker out in places. That would not be good.

I don't know what kind of car they came out of.  I found a seat laying in the bed of a pick up which had the two motors in it.  Someone did all the heavy work taking the seats out of something.  I just had to remove the motors and wiring.  I think the speed they turn is just about right. Not to slow and not to fast.

aa335....are you planning to adapt a skid shoe on it ?

I am debating whether to drill into the stock sides, add a skid shoe, bolt, fender washer and nut on it....

I can't say for all the Toro models, but on my 1800 I had about 10 year ago, they even employed a skid shoe of some variant so that that would take the wear and not the bottom housing.

???????
I may just buy the wheeled ones from Snowblowers Direct and Adapt it to the HS520.