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Jonathan


I am a marvelous housekeeper. Every time I leave a man I keep his house. -Zsa Zsa

Location: Near Albany NY
Joined: Sep 12, 2004
Points: 320

Old rusty OPE part
Original Message   Jan 26, 2005 4:14 pm
I used to own an old Gravely walk-behind that I used for plowing snow and mowing (had a rotary as well as sicklebar). I sometimes regret selling it. Anyway, once when I was using the sicklebar a sicklebar part came off. I bought a new one. The old one reappeared last year while I was breaking new ground with the tiller. It's rusty and pitted, but still useable and I could probably sell it on eBay. I have a sandblaster which would be ideal, but hauling that out this time of year would be a pain. Are there any products that are good for removing rust that I could try?

2004 Ariens 11528LE, Troybilt Horse "Big Red" Tiller (original), Troybilt Tuffy Tiller (original), Sears LT1000 mower, Lawn Boy 7073 21" mower, Stihl FS55 RC trimmer, Poulan Countervibe 3400 chainsaw
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Dave___in___CT


Deliberate often...
...decide once...


Location: West-Central Connecticut
Joined: Sep 17, 2002
Points: 3159

Re: Old rusty OPE part
Reply #1   Jan 26, 2005 5:35 pm
Hi...

Ahhhhh.... yes....
The infamous Gravely 2-wheel walk behind tractors...
The same kind I almost rolled my Aunt's 1950's Chevy over with !   

A story I told before ....  and will tell again at this forum someday...  



I read an interesting and effective rust removal solution at tractorbuynet.com a few months ago...


Had to do with a simple solution the part is placed in and I think an electric source...

It is simple and effective...

A search ther might bring up the old posts on it...

See next post... to hard to find at tractorbuynet...




Dave...
This message was modified Jan 26, 2005 by Dave___in___CT


Whether you think you can or you can't... you're right.
Henry Ford

   BCS Tractor & snowblower

Dave___in___CT


Deliberate often...
...decide once...


Location: West-Central Connecticut
Joined: Sep 17, 2002
Points: 3159

Re: Old rusty OPE part
Reply #2   Jan 26, 2005 5:48 pm
Here's some links that likely relevant...

"Rust Removal using Electrolysis"



Link 1...

Link 2...

Link 3...

Link 4...


...enough reading 4 U !


Dave...

Whether you think you can or you can't... you're right.
Henry Ford

   BCS Tractor & snowblower

Walt


Do what you can, with what you have, where you are. -T. Roosevelt

Location: Chester County, PA
Joined: Dec 31, 2004
Points: 148

Re: Old rusty OPE part
Reply #3   Jan 26, 2005 7:04 pm
We use a similar method for reducing the diameters of precision ground s.s. rod at work. Although perhaps not applicable to this project of rust removal, if the rod is straight it will take it off uniformally around the rod. If the rod is "U" shaped, the effects on the outside of the rods will have one removal rate while the inside of the "U" will remove at a slower rate due to the two sides that are electrified facing each other; (both with the same electrode current.) This could be applicable if one used this on say a lawn mower blade where the inside bore would not remove as quickly as the outside facing parts. (actually to an advantage as the diameter would not change as quickly as the outside surfaces of the blade)...For what it's worth. Walt
This message was modified Jan 26, 2005 by Walt
Jonathan


I am a marvelous housekeeper. Every time I leave a man I keep his house. -Zsa Zsa

Location: Near Albany NY
Joined: Sep 12, 2004
Points: 320

Re: Old rusty OPE part
Reply #4   Jan 26, 2005 8:55 pm
Dave,

Thanks for your suggestions. I'll check them out.

Jonathan

2004 Ariens 11528LE, Troybilt Horse "Big Red" Tiller (original), Troybilt Tuffy Tiller (original), Sears LT1000 mower, Lawn Boy 7073 21" mower, Stihl FS55 RC trimmer, Poulan Countervibe 3400 chainsaw
spottedpony


Joined: Aug 23, 2004
Points: 301

Re: Old rusty OPE part
Reply #5   Jan 26, 2005 9:32 pm
heres a link i posted on wtb a while back.....very informative and shows some good pictures of the ERR process, what ive found doing this is a larger battery charger is better i use my 200 amp charger set at about 50 amps with good results. try mixing about a quarter cup of the arm & hammer washing soda in about 4 gallons of water, contained in a 5 gallon bucket.

http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html

Walt


Do what you can, with what you have, where you are. -T. Roosevelt

Location: Chester County, PA
Joined: Dec 31, 2004
Points: 148

Re: Old rusty OPE part
Reply #6   Jan 27, 2005 5:26 am
Jonathan, Electrolosis definately removes stuff, although you may want to consider using some Naval Jelly to remove the rust, followed by a coat of Extend rust treatment or paint. (www.duro.com) (electrolosis could give great results , although it appears as a labor trade off of "getting out your sandblaster" as you mentioned) I would probably use Naval Jelly and then hit it with a coat of Rustoleum primer.. Walt P.S. Hey I got a star!!! The paper cutout star I have taped to my computer is coming down!!!
This message was modified Jan 27, 2005 by Walt
spottedpony


Joined: Aug 23, 2004
Points: 301

Re: Old rusty OPE part
Reply #7   Jan 27, 2005 9:11 am
Walt wrote:
 although you may want to consider using some Naval Jelly to remove the rust

ive used naval jelly in the past but consider this, naval jelly is messy,  caustic  & potentially the fumes can be dangerous and getting all the naval jelly out of badly rusted pitted surfaces is hard to do.  where as ERR using the arm & hammer washing soda is completely biodegradeable. (its only a soap solution) in fact when i dispose of the waste, i dump it in the grass alongside the shop with no ill effects what so ever. ive derusted many small parts....some experimentally, some out of necessity with very good results. after removing the item from the "bath" i dry it off with a rag, allow it to set for a couple hours to totally air dry then it takes only a few minutes with a wire wheel on my bench grinder or hand held grinder to remove the black coating that remains. another benifit is one doesnt have to return to the badly rusted part several times to recoat with naval jelly if all the rust isnt removed with the first application.

both methods have they're usefullness but whenever possible i use ERR because i can "set it and forget it" if left in the bath after the rust is all removed, there is no degradion of the clean metal if not removed from the bath immediately.

Walt


Do what you can, with what you have, where you are. -T. Roosevelt

Location: Chester County, PA
Joined: Dec 31, 2004
Points: 148

Re: Old rusty OPE part
Reply #8   Jan 27, 2005 6:31 pm
Spottedpony, I agree that ERR can do a nice job. My only point was that Jonathan wanted something easier than pulling out his sandblaster. If one didn't have the ERR setup available (had to construct one), that Naval Jelly may be an alternative. (I can get to my sandblaster in about 5 minutes and my compressor is always "right there") Thanks for your input and recommendations. Best regards, Walt
spottedpony


Joined: Aug 23, 2004
Points: 301

Re: Old rusty OPE part
Reply #9   Jan 28, 2005 9:59 am
Sorry i must have misunderstood, i thought this thread was about alternate methods of removing rust because he didnt want to drag out a sandblaster this time of year. so i provided a comparison of the two processes based on my experiences with both.

FYI

ERR is very quick to set up,  it takes about 5 minutes to fill a plastic bucket with water, add the washing soda, mix well, drop in the anode and cathode and hook the charger to it.

Walt


Do what you can, with what you have, where you are. -T. Roosevelt

Location: Chester County, PA
Joined: Dec 31, 2004
Points: 148

Re: Old rusty OPE part
Reply #10   Jan 28, 2005 8:42 pm
Jonathan , Please don't use Naval Jelly. I shouldn't have suggested it because ERR was already on the table.  I'm going spank myself for suggesting another method.  Thanks,  Walt 

Again, DO NOT contemplate NAVAL JELLY!   "NAVAL JELLY=BAD" It is caustic (unlike ERR which only gives off Hydrogen gas)

This message was modified Jan 29, 2005 by Walt
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