Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I picked up a 11 HP Yardman snowblower and I was planning on putting the motor on my Ariens ST 8\24 that has a Tecumseh 8hp HM100 on it.

The 11 HP motor is a Tecumseh Snow King OHV. It looks like the it will mount on the Ariens without a problem but, it has 2 drive shafts where the 8 hp that only has 1.

Do you know if it is possible to make it work on the Ariens with 2 drive shafts?

>>my Ariens ST 8\24 that has a Tecumseh 8hp HM100 on it.

  A Tecumseh 8hp would be an HM80.  If it’s got HM100 stamped into the top of the cowling then

it’s probably a 10hp.

>>The 11 HP motor is a Tecumseh Snow King OHV.

   Murrays sometimes had a stepped crank end but it could be straight 1 inch.

 >>it has 2 drive shafts where the 8 hp that only has 1.

   You can remove the pulley and ignore the cam PTO or even saw off the excess.

>>Do you know if it is possible to make it work on the Ariens…….

   It may bolt right on the footprint holes for the 8hp but if the crank sticks out too far then there

Should be holes already drilled for other hp engines.  Guessing it’s a 924xxx Ariens body then the

8hp tractor base was used for larger buckets and engines so pre-drilled for 8hp through 11hp.

   One issue will be how the head sticks out over the chute crank.   An 11hp will probably be high enough

to clear the chute crank.  I've mounted a Honda 11hp OHV on a 924 ST824 body without a problem.  You'll

probably have to get a slightly larger auger belt size to avoid auger rotation when the clutch is not engaged.

It is an HM80 and I want to replace it with a OHSK 110 spec 221703A. The 11 HP does have  a stepped crank end. Is that going to be a problem? Should I take the pully off of the HM80 and use that instead on the one that is existing on the 11hp motor?

You mentioned taking the existing pully off of cam PTO and not using that pto at all. Is that ok to do? Will the motor lose any power if I dont use that pto?

I really dont have any problems with the HM80 but, I got the 11hp for almost nothing. I figured getting a little more power is a good thing.

Can you think of any real disadvantage I will have with an 11hp motor on a 24 inch path snow blower?

>>The 11 HP does have  a stepped crank end. Is that going to be a problem?

   Depends on how far back the step goes.  If the 1” part sticks out far enough for the 8hp pulley to line up with the lower pulley then it’s ok.   Some of the stepped cranks are long so may hit your cover.  You could saw it off or make a hole for the protrusion. 

 

I had to modify the belt cover fit to accommodate 11hp Honda style OHV I put on a 924050 8hp body.  The engine crank pulley was higher than the 8hp so I cut a U shape along one side of the belt cover.  The cut for the U legs ran along the edges of the belt cover and the right angle to the legs was cut at the low section of the belt cover.  That made a flap connected at the top of the cover.  The flap was then bent up to make the top higher for pulley room.  The flap was fixed there with black duct tape.   Cut cleanly and placed well it held the flap and stayed in place with vibration, cold and getting wet.   Without being told that the cover was cut and taped a person would not notice it.

 

>> Should I take the pully off of the HM80 and use that instead on the one that is existing on the 11hp motor?

   You could use either as long as the 11hp pulley will work with the existing belts.  If the 11hp is a bit bigger diameter it will increase the rpm of the system i.e. augers and impeller.  That would be nice.   

   You have not said what your model is but I’m guessing an ST824 924xxx series and will have a single cast double V of two different size belts.  Your Murray probably won’t match.   

 

>>You mentioned taking the existing pully off of cam PTO and not using that pto at all. Is that ok to do? Will the motor lose any power if I dont use that pto?

    Your 8hp does not have a PTO does it?   There is nothing for it to drive.  Without the drain from the PTO the crank will have that power available.  No problem that I know of.  I know of a number of transplants engines with PTO to non-PTO snowblowers.   

 

>>I really dont have any problems with the HM80 but, I got the 11hp for almost nothing. I figured getting a little more power is a good thing.

   It will get you a slight distance increase in normal snow and go through packed more easily with about the same distance as normal snow.   Wet snow will not be a problem.  For bad slush it will pump out ice cylinder blanks that fall to the ground without breaking.

 

   One thing to consider is going with a bigger pulley.   Your 11hp will still rotate at 3600 RPM but have more power and torque.   You could work out the numbers to get the impeller at 1300 to 1400 RPM.  That would be nice.  You’d have to make even more belt cover room.  In that case you could cut it in two and tape in a 2 inch piece to extend the top section. 

 

>>Can you think of any real disadvantage I will have with an 11hp motor on a 24 inch path snow blower?

The base was meant to have a bigger engine but that was usually balanced with a bigger/wider bucket.   It will handle and feel like you have a big engine which it is but won’t be tough to use.

 

Doing the swap will be a challenge the first time but after you’ve done it swapping back will be easy.  You could try it for a while and if you don’t like it change back. 

The airens it is going on is a 924052. The 11 hp did bolt right on to the Ariens body. The only problem that I have it the stepped shaft size It is a little long and  It goes from 1.25 to 1.0 to .75 inches.  The Airiens pully needs 1 inch.

Is there any way to reduce the shaff size down from 1.25 to 1 inch?  If I could do that, I would be all set!!

I was thinking of running the motor and slowly applying pressure on a file. Do you think that would reduce the shaft size if I worked at it a while?

>>The airens it is going on is a 924052.

That’s a 1032 unless someone has swapped out the engine and bucket to make an 824.  Or, you have two machines, 824 and 1032.  ??

   If it's going on a 1032 which I think it might as you first gave the engine number as a HM100 then I'd do a leakdown test on both engines to check how good they were before swapping.

>>the stepped shaft size It is a little long and  It goes from 1.25 to 1.0 to .75 inches.  The Airiens pully needs 1 inch.

   Sleeves are available with a dual size key for getting the .75 to one inch.  Reducing by filing would work but you would be working in the middle of the file mostly keeping your hands on the ends and away from the rotating crank.  The PTO will also be spinning.   You’d probably go through several files and it would be a bit dangerous.

   Possibly the 1.25 pulley is a two part pulley with the key built into the sections.  If it’s the same belt size you could use it and buy a single for the other belt.  You might have to add a spacer to get it aligned.  If it can’t be used you could buy two singles online from Banta Saw or Grangers.  

My mistake, it is a 924XXX, it is an ST 824. The shaff is to long and i tried to grind it this morning and it looks like it would take many hours.

So, I spoke to a local machine shop and they can turn the shaft down to 1 inch for about $50.

Now, my next challenge is to pull the motor apart and get the crank out and bring it to the machine shop. I have never torn down a motor that far. How difficult is it?

Any things to be aware of or look out for?

Replacing the pulleys would be easier. 

 

Second to that you could sell the 11.5 and dump the money into a new Chinese GX Honda clone 11hp OHV which can be had for $239.  The crank will be 1 inch with a ¼ key.  It would bolt right on with the only other mod being the belt cover.  There’s even a place to hook up your throttle cable from the dash if the 924 is an older model.

 

If you go for pulling the crank then it’s a lot of work and you should at least put in new rings and lap the valves.  You have not done that so would have to at least come up with a valve grinding tool $5-10, compound  $4, gaskets ~$10, valve spring compressor $10, ring compressor and expander ~$25 but rings can be removed  and installed without these with care $15, and new rings ~$50.  Possibly these won’t be available locally so include a few shipping charges.     Given the machining cost, rings, other parts and a few tools you’ll probably spend $150 to get the job done. 

    

You’ll have to spend a few hours watching some UTube videos on rebuilding and surf for guidebooks on rebuilding an OHV.