Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I recently picked up a Airens ST1032 snowblower. It is in good shape but, when I bought it it was taken apart. The previous owner said it did not have any spark. I replaced the points and condenser and I also removed the cylinder head cover to check the condition of the piston and valves. They look good but i did notice a hair line crack in the cylinder head. (the part the spark plug screws into). It does not appear to go all the way through.

I am in the process of putting the motor back together, but with the cylinder cracked, I am also considering getting a new motor all together. How do i know if the head is trashed? It does seem to have a decent amount of compression, but it hard to tell, because i dont know what "normal" is for that motor?

It is a 10hp tecumseh HM100 motor

Any advice?

  It's probably just some left over dregs and the carb will cleanup and be fine after another basic run through.  I dip in two solutions for 24 hours, give it an ultrasonic bath, then wash with carb spray then compressed air.  Occasionally it will act just like yours and it ends up some crud was missed.  I re-do the basics below and it's usually enough to get it going properly.   The chances of needing a new carb around about 200:1.

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/tecumseh_carb_632334a.asp

 

Running a quart of gas through the tank out of the carb line to flush crud in the line that often causes problems.  Catch gas in a white cup and look for crud.  Often I'll run a half gallon through but still end up with bowl dregs after putting the carb back on.  The dregs are usually bits from the gas line that get loose from handling and break off later.

 

Spray through the carb inlet, both directions with the inlet line removed.

 

Check the carb seat is ribbed side in and fully seated.

 

Take the needle out of the bowl nut and spray in there.  Clean both holes in the nut with a thin wire, i.e. stripped tie wrap.  One is tiny and just above the bottom threads where the smooth area starts.

 

Run a thin wire up into the main tube i.e. runs from the bottom of carb into the throat.  Put slight bends in the tube so they just graze the tube inside.  Stick the carb spray tube at the tube and spray up into it.

 

Remove the choke butterfly and run a wire in the main jet air inlet at the base of the choke butterfly.  At least stick the carb spray tube there and spray in.

 

Check the float setting for 11/64 between rim and float with the carb turned upside down.  Use a drill of that size laid across the bowl rim. The float should just touch the drill.

 

Check if the needle is sticking on the seat by moving the float up and down a few time and watching the needle.  It may stick lightly but pull off as you lower the bowl.

 

Spray into the primer port and watch the flat on the outside of the carb just above the low idle adjust for a spray out of the air vent hole (tiny).  Also spray in the base welch cutout by the main jet base and watch for a fluid out of the same hole.

 

Remove the idle jet and spray in there.

Good Post Trouts.

-Friiy

I took the carb apart and soaked it again for 24 hours. I am going to blow out all the passages,, reasseble and give it try today. I will let you know how it goes.

Thank you for all the help so far.

I need to get a starter, and gas tank (I broke the tank when the pull start handle slipped out of my hand and smacked the side of the tank and put a nice hole in the it) The hole cold probably be fixed, but i am not sure what type of adheasive to use that will stand up to gasoline?

Does anyone have a good source for a starter and tank? Part numbers? 

 

made a little progress.....if I prime the carb it will start and run with the choke off, but only for a few seconds. Not sure what the next steps are? Possibly float adjustment? Vacuum leak?

One thing i noticed on the float bowl, it must have gotten a dent in it at some point, it was pushed back out, but not completely, could the float be getting caught up on the dent?

If the dent has increased the dimension of the float to cause it to get closer to the float bowl, it may very well be sticking in the closed position.   You  might want to move the float on it's axis to see how smoothly it moves with the float bowl off.  There is very little vertical movement but it should be smooth.  You might also want to make half of a simulated float bowl out of a tin can to use to see what kind of clearance the float has between it and the side of the simulated float bowl.  From what you're saying,  the engine seems to be experiencing fuel starvation.  Are you getting good consistent fuel flow to the carb?  You can test that by pulling the fuel line off at the carb and putting a container under it to allow the fuel to run  into it for a few seconds.  Take a good look at the fuel that comes out.  Look for water and dirt.    A picture of the float would be good to see.

You can get the Tecumseh factory number off the cowling and go to the link below for part numbers.  It should be stamped on top.

http://www.outdoordistributors.com/Tecumseh/Tecumsehpartslists.html

 

Do you have pullback causing the handle to pull out of your hands?  Timing.too advanced or gap too small causing an early fire?

 

Did you just break the starter cord with all the pulling?  A new cord can be strung pretty easily.

 

For the cost of a new tank and recoil you could get a motor.  There are plenty of glues around that will be ok with gas if the crack or hole is suitable for patching.  Patching a tank is a bother.  You can pickup a second hand tank

 

To see if it will run you can start it and keep punching the primer to get gas to it.  It seems like it still could have a block someplace.  The bowl is stepped.  The lower portion with the dimple goes away from the float hinge. 

I took the carb off of my other snowblower (st824) and swapped it, and it runs fine with no other adjustments. I went through the original one twice and have speant many hours playing with it, I think its time to get a new carb and be done with it. They seem to go for about $100.

The pull cord and recoil are ok, the handle slipped out of my hand once,and broke the tank.

dvdkea wrote:
Have you completely dis-assembled the carb down to it's basic components?  I.e. pulled and cleaned the jets, run wire and blown compressed air through the galleries, set float to spec, checked for manifold air leaks?  I've worked on a lot of carburetors for over 35 years and have never come across one yet that I couldn't fix.  Sure, might have taken a while to get it right but that was usually caused by being in too much of a hurry on the first or second go around.  

I did take the carb completly apart. Removed the jet, remover the chocke butterfly, and throttle butterfly, everything was apart, soaked it, and blew out all the passages, etc.

Something i did notice. The choke butterfly is bent. it appears to have been slightly beant so it would open and close. I did try to straighten it, got it flat, and the choke would not operate. Could the beant choke butterfly be causing this issue? 

If the engine is stalling because it's flooded, that could be attributed to the choke engaging after the engine is warmed up.  However, it it's a problem with fuel starvation, the choke will have no effect on that.  Next time you have it running and it stops, pull the spark plug to see if it's got any fuel on it.  If you don't see fuel, try to see if you can detect the smell of gasoline on it.  If you have evidence of gasoline, the engine is probably stalling from being flooded.  If not, you have fuel starvation.