Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I just used my 1350 for the first time (bought used about a month ago, but only a year old)... 944.527394 (well the model doesn't show up, but that's the right number - it's a 27 inch OHV B&S 1350 series 305 cc machine) It snowed about 5 inches of snow a couple of days ago and of course I had to deal with the snowplow "droppings" at the end of the driveway. It went through it all pretty good. Good shooting of the snow and no problems with things when I was blowing the snow. I come out to the garage the next morning and I thought 5 or 6 dogs took a leak on my garage door from the pool of yellow liquid I saw. I open up the garage door and see this pool of yellow liquid under the front of the blower and going out and under the garage door. Question, would this be the auger gear oil? It says it takes Ronex ED #1 (Extra Duty) and I think it is yellow in colour, but wow that just baffles me as to how much was there. After that there seemed to be some light green liquid there too. Maybe the other guy coated it with something, but I'm afraid to start the blower for fear of destroying the auger casing. No gas smell and the oil level is perfect at the fill level... Before I start taking things apart, I'd appreciate some input as to what this likely is and what I need to do (new auger gearcase maybe, new auger gasket,) Also good place to get parts in Canada? I see that these are Husky machines, but not sure if Craftsman parts are cheaper than Husky or not. good info in these threads so hoping borat or snowmachine can chime in http://www.abbysguide.com/ope/discussions/32378-A-1.html http://www.abbysguide.com/ope/discussions/33989-0-1.html Cheers

steverons reference of being filed refered to the outer edges of the rake teeth being shorter than a new rake.  They seemed to be filed down.

If skids are set too high or worn out the rakes can hit the ground and grind down the rake ends.  If a driveway has many hills or moguls then the rakes will touch when the skids are in a trough.  That puts a lot of wear on the auger support bearings and gearbox parts. 

Run your fingers on the sides of the blade by the forward edge.  If scraping the edge will push out metal at 90 degrees making a very sharp edge lip you can slice your finger on.   May be the prior owner ran the skids down or had the skids too high.  Check the bottom edge of the bucket.  If the skids are too high that will cause wear there also.  I've seen buckets worn 1/2 inch off the bottom.

you would think that the wear on the augers would also involve wear on the scraper but the scraper looks new. Unless it is new. Someone had mentioned in a previous post that it might be wise to put a support bracket from the gear case to the upper intake housing, similar to what Simplicity has. That might help reduce the flex in the auger/gear case assembly.

Thorn:

If you installed the bearing below then it should mate closely with the auger shaft and have very little play or slop.  It’s got two mounting screws so could have some play but should be minimal.  Between the two the amount of slop might be a 64^th or 32^nd but no half inch i.e. enough to let whole shaft and gearbox move ½ inch with two new bearings installed. 

Something is up.  Either you ordered the wrong bearing, they sent the wrong bearing, the drawing calls out the wrong bearing.

 

OR: since snowmachine had a similar problem it may be a design problem.  It’s also possible that things got mixed up in manufacturing and the build guys or documentation guys got something mixed up.  Whatever happened no one designs a rake shaft with that much slop.  That’s the ½ in slop.

 

It’s the same for the ¼ inch slop in the side to side direction.  I assume the shaft moves as a unit i.e. the searbox is not moving with the shaft not  moving.  That the gearbox and the shaft move together ¼ inch side to side.  If that’s right then there’s too much play there.  Again the bearing is not right.  It could be the shaft is too short and thin allowing the slop but that’s too hard to believe.

 

The resolve would be to get the right parts by going over this with the factory.  Sears won’t help much.  If you end up with you have all the “right” parts, that is parts that they say are correct and still have the slop then I’d go for snowmachine’s mods.  He's got a ballbearing and obviously a better match.  Using the machine as is will only lead to premature failure. 

 

There should be no mystery here.  The slop should be visible and it’s probably because the support bearing is oversized.  It should be tight.  If it was tight and mounts securely then you can’t have slop.  They have to be the wrong bearings for whatever reason.

trouts2 wrote:

I think the rake shafts are too short on this unit. I noticed when I swapped mine it seemed like rake shaft maybe resided 2/3 of the way into each bushing on each side. I would think it should be very close to the end of the bushing wall? The bearings I installed support it much better.

HTTPs://ouppes.com

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after you repair it I would make a brace mabye an L bracket.  Honda had a big problem back several years back becuase they had no brace and they had a lot of broken auger shafts.  They came out with a fix , replacing the auger gearbox and added a brace.  now the last several years all Honda's come with it..

Knee_Biter wrote:

That's what I need to do... I'll probably go that route after the warranty expires.

I see, well the guy did have a super steep driveway so that might explain it. (house where the driveway slopes down to go to a garage below ground level...) That could explain that he caught things on the rake, but I didn't notice it. I replaced the skids with poly ones (after the pics were taken) just to be safe (save my interlock walkway) and the scraper is pretty much brand new. I will see if I can get the Husky parts and go from there. That L bracket looks like the answer to what I am looking for. Very good to see that. looks like it would fit nicely on mine. Just have to drill some holes to support the thing...any part number for that? Let me work on the husky parts first... The bearings listed above by snowmachine are not mine. Mine has the larger hole diameter, that looks like 3/4" or so, but mine is the same size as the auger shaft (1 1/4"). My part number in my manual and the parts I took off are 174658 for the auger bearing and 188909 for the flange bearing assy. I will take the old bearings to Husky to see if I can get some other parts... Cheers

checked the rake and it seems all good... the old auger bearings themselves are fine too after taking readings with a micrometer...same dimensions with new as with old ones... I may have to go with the L bracket after all... I found that the part for the Honda might be 76714-V03-000, but will have to check the dimensions... plus it's $50 so might be easier to make one on my own :) Off to Husky parts to see if that works first before the bracket... seems this used sb is not a great deal after all, but having fun learning from it :)

   The bearings snowmachine listed are replacement mod bearings so won't be your exact bearings.

   From your last two posts it looks like you have measured the new bearing to the old and they match. 

Thorn: Mine has the larger hole diameter, that looks like 3/4" or so, but mine is the same size as the auger shaft (1 1/4").

   How could the bearing hole be 3/4 and the shaft 1 1/4?

   If the bearing is a tight fit to the shaft so no play and the bearing screws in tightly and no play.  Where is the 1/2 in play comming from?  You have yet to locate or at least post where the play is comming from.  If you have both ends of the rake shaft secured to the bearings and those to the housing then the shaft can't move 1/2 inch up and down.  Where is the slop comming from?   If  the ends can still flop around putting a brace over the gearbox won't have a big effect.  How can a gearbox mated to a 1 1/4 inch shaft move?  It can't bend so it must be loose ends.  ??