Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

(Making progress, slow but sure.  This thread started a few years ago.  The clutch lever was replaced and works fine, but finally getting to the shift rod adjustment)


Two questions....

I've got an old 7HP Ariens with the H70 engine, a tire was low (maybe empty) so I inflated it just before using it.  Short while later I see it's riding off the rim.  Inflated it again and made it through the storm.  I did notice the second time around, with a now wet rim, that the air was leaking (bubbling) out through the base of the stem, and a tad around the bead.

What's the right way of changing a tire tube on a rusty rim so it holds air?

And about a clutch.  The hand lever was all but locked and wouldn't go in.  Although there may not be a relationship, I fiddled with the gear selector a bit and then the clutch worked fine.  This happened several times.  I looked inside the chassis and didn't see anything amiss, but at the time the lever was also working properly.  What could cause an intermittent lockout of the clutch lever from functioning?

trouts2 wrote:
This one must be an antique because engaging the lever stops the machine.  I've cleaned and lubricated everything but it still sometimes binds.  Watching it, appears that everything should be fine but it's not.  I can live with it and hope it works out the kink.

I got the tube into the crazed and cracked tire with the aid of some dishwasher soap.  No way that  aged tire was going to come off one side of the rim without self destructing.

Gonna adjust the length of the shifting rod at the threaded knob/locknut adjustment that's just outside of the tractor.  The machine doesn't readily engage in reverse, and sometimes in neutral will creep forward as if it's in first.  And fourth seems to travel really fast, I'm almost trotting along behind it.  I want to lengthen the rod (is that correct logic?) but by how many turns?  I don't want to be too aggressive and break anything.

grump. i'm not sure but i believe my 824 adjusts the same as yours. it says to remove enough gas to tip it up on the housing then  place the speed selector into first gear.with the clutch disengaged( the lever not squeezed)turn wheels while tightening adjustment nut,at clutch yoke,until wheels begin to drag.engage and release traction clutch to align clutch linkage.repeat procedure as necessary. when wheel drag is obtained with linkage aligned,turn nut back three turns.wheels will then turn freely.that's the book's version .my version would be  to take the snowblower outside and point it in a direction it will not run into anything.start the engine up and put the gear selector in first gear. start to tighten the nut till the machine just starts to move.at that point shut the engine off to stop foreward movement of the machine.once the engine and machine has stopped you loosen the same adjustment nut at the yoke three full turns.this is the ball park procedure both by the book and my method.you are going to want to check any movement of the machine( with the drive clutch not activated and engine running) by moving the gear selector  thru all foreward gears and reverse to make sure it doesn't drag in those gears and start to move. once you find where the machine doesn't move in any foreward or reverse gears selected you are good to go.by tightening the nut on the rod you give the drive less clearance to the friction wheel and by loosening the nut you give the drive more clearance to the wheel. too little clearance (too tight)and you may have the machine want to move with the drive lever still out in any gear and put way too much force on the friction wheel when the clutch lever is engaged.  by having too much clearance(too loose) the drive may slip on the friction wheel causing the machine not to have enough engagement to push itself during heavy conditions. the drive clutch adjustment nut when adjusted will change the amount of free play  the clutch lever has on the handlebar as it's squeezed to engage the drive of the machine.  hope this helps!

I've been basking that seized adjustment fitting with PB spray for days now.  The nut is free, but the threaded shaft part is seized up really bad.  Tried some heat from a propane torch today; figured nothing to lose. Started with a gentle tool and last attempt was with 16" pipe wrenches. 

I don't think I can fabricate a part like that.   The local dealer said he has used parts like that but doesn't sell them over the counter, and I'd resent paying someone to install it for that reason.

So for now I just toodle along in 3rd and try avoiding needing reverse or neutral.  The old rusty heap works like a champ charging through those hard packed curb mounds like there's nothing in the way!

Thanks all for your help.

(edited to correct a typo)

Can't believe I'm resurrecting a post from two years ago, but goshbegee, this was one of the first things that came up on a google search!

I have finally unseized the shift rod adjustment barrel, and can guess an adjustment but don't see one listed in the manual.

It's a Model 10962 (from 1969, going on it's 43rd season?) which I believe is covered in this manual:
http://apache.ariens.com/manuals/prm-10000.pdf

Is there a proper way to set the length of the shifting rod?

Sounds similar to my old JD 828,  You want to set it so, when its in neutral, there is just a tad bit of clearance between the friction wheel and the aluminum disk.  Bout 1/8 inch as I remember. Set it too close and the rubber will wear off the friction disk.  Too far, and the rubber will wear too cause it will slip.

Hmmm, that makes sense, too.

I was told to put the shifter in R and to pull the shifter rod out from the chassis as far as it would go.  Then to adjust the rod so it fits within those settings.  Doing that the machine was able to idle in N without creeping and R worked for the first time in years.

Will have to check for clearance you described.  Maybe two ways of getting to the same end result?

Thx