Abby's Guide to Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more)
Username Password
Discussions Reviews More Guides
Abby’s Guide > Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) > Discussions > Can track drive be upgraded to make it stronger?

Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Search For:
jtimmy


Joined: Dec 22, 2009
Points: 2

Can track drive be upgraded to make it stronger?
Original Message   Dec 22, 2009 11:52 pm
I have a track drive two-stage 12hp snowblower.  However, the drive doesn't seem to be very strong.  That is, I wish it were more "tank-ish" - would be able to push through packed snow better, could climb over snow banks if necessary (if that makes sense). 

Does anyone know if there is any gearing or anything that would improve on what I have?  I admit that I don't know much about the innards of my machine and was hoping someone else did.

Any help is appreciated!  Thanks!

Replies: 2 - 4 of 4Next page of topicsPreviousAllView as Outline
Steve_Cebu


Joined: Dec 17, 2009
Points: 888

Re: Can track drive be upgraded to make it stronger?
Reply #2   Dec 23, 2009 9:12 am
I'm going to assume that it's like my tracked Honda 928. Basically if the scraper bar is too low it can hang up the tracks if it's on ice. The same for if you are pushing into a plowed up snowbank. Try raising the box a bit since tracks shouldn't slip unless the box is getting stuck. If you want more traction on ice, maybe you can get some cleats for the tracks or stud them with screws? I'd ask the dealer that you use to repair the machine if that's possible.

"If you have more miles on your snow blower than your car, you live in New England."  "If you can drive 75 mph through 2 feet of snow during a raging blizzard without flinching, you live in New England."
jtimmy


Joined: Dec 22, 2009
Points: 2

Re: Can track drive be upgraded to make it stronger?
Reply #3   Dec 24, 2009 12:22 am
DDD777 wrote:
Well, if you could provide a little more info, there are folks on this forum that probably have some ideas.

1.  What manufacturer's system is it?  i.e. Ariens, Craftsman, etc.

2.  By stronger, do you mean that the tracks slip and don't push the front of the machine where you want it to, or do you mean it hits a snow drift and stops with out the tracks slipping?

3.  How old is the machine?  (relevant to items like disk drives, if applicable or drive belt maintenance, if needed.)


Thanks to you both for your quick responses.  Here's a little more information:

What manufacturer's system is it? How old is the machine?--  1 yr old Troy-Bilt Storm Tracker 2690.  However, I bought it locally from a guy that takes the original machine and upgrades the engine (in this case to a Briggs & Stratton 1350 Snow Series -- 305cc, 13.50 ft-lbs gross torque) and the auger.  I'm not sure if anything was done to the gearing/drive.  The reason for coming to this forum for answers is that the guy is a little flaky and I'm getting a bit tired of  trying to get information from him.  I believe Troy-Bilt gets their machines or at least their major components, like many others, from the same company in Canada (don't have the name right off).

As far as stronger goes I mean it hits a snow drift and it just stops.  The tracks don't slip/break traction, so I'm assuming something internally is slipping.  I'm not expecting the machine to bulldoze through the slush, ice and heavily packed snow the snowplow pushed in front of my house (though it would be nice :-).  I just think I hit some drifts that should be "do-able" if the tracks could just keep pushing a bit more.  The auger and engine should be able to handle it, but the drive doesn't seem to be comparable.  I don't know how else to describe it.  I don't think I'm getting hung up on ice or anything like that as well.

I don't know if the drive is a disk drive or a belt drive, but could dig into it a bit more to find out.  I don't hear anything when I think something internally is slipping, which makes me tend to think it's a disk drive (please correct me if I'm wrong, but if it were a belt drive I would expect to hear a whine or something similar to a car that has a belt slipping).  This isn't an area of expertise for me.  Maybe some water gets into my drive and causes some slipping?  Dunno.

If any further information is needed the help clarify, please let me know.  Thanks again for your consideration and time.

trouts2




Location: Marlboro MA
Joined: Dec 8, 2007
Points: 1328

Re: Can track drive be upgraded to make it stronger?
Reply #4   Dec 24, 2009 8:47 am

Jtimmy:

 I believe Troy-Bilt gets their machines or at least their major components, like many

 

The Troy-Bilt machine is a made by MTD,  factory model 31AM73Q3766 Snow Tracker 2690 26.  You can get all the manuals at the MTD site.

 

The machine came stock with a 208CC OHV which is roughly 7hp engine.

 

The drive section is the same MTD stock drive components used since 1997 (and earlier) and part for part the same except for one small section which may or may not be an improvement in robustness of the drive. 

 

Jtimmy:

As far as stronger goes I mean it hits a snow drift and it just stops. 

 

   This is fairly subjective.  The snowdrift part.  You should be able to drive into bucket high average density snow in the slowest gear and move forward throwing 20-25 feet.  A 1997 8hp track will do that and your machine has distance improvements so yours should do that without slipping the tracks and probably toss further.  Since your machine has monster torque with the 12hp it should toss 40 feet easily.

  
Jtimmy:

The tracks don't slip/break traction, so I'm assuming something internally is slipping. 

Jtimmy:

 I don't know if the drive is a disk drive or a belt drive,

 

   Seems like that is the case.  Unless something is broken it could be just the adjustment of the friction disk to the drive plate like the clutch lever linkage, worn friction disk or a drive plate friction disk bearing issue, miss-alignment or drive belt issue.  The 12hp is much taller so he had to up the belt length.  It could be the drive belt is not a good match or not tensioned properly.  Take off the belt cover and see what is going on in there when you press the drive clutch.   Put the machine on it’s bucket and open the bottom panel and move the friction disk by hand with the clutch engaged and not engaged.

 

   You should be able to drive into a pile, bog down and slip the tracks i.e. have them rotate but no forward progress.  There is no slip mechanism in there other than the friction disk slipping or the belt slipping.

 

Jtimmy:

The auger and engine should be able to handle it, but the drive doesn't seem to be comparable. 

 

   Not sure what part you are referring to by “auger” and you said also he “upgraded” the auger.  What did he do?  Was it the auger gearbox, auger blades?   The gearbox in there is the stock gearbox MTD has used for many years.  It’s not robust.  The worm gear is about the smallest in the industry.  It can last for 20 years easily if the machine is used properly.  You’ve got a 12 hp so lots of power.  If you start forcing that machine in to piles the gearbox is not going to last.  The MTD track is not a heavy machine.  They lift a little sooner than a 8hp Ariens machine but not enough to make a huge difference.  You have some added weight with the 12hp so may be able to keep the bucket  down longer than with the 208cc engine.  But it would be better to back off forcing it and let it chew whatever it can comfortably to make it last for many years.  You also have the 3 bucket position lever which you can use. 

 

   All in all the MTD track machines are excellent.  They are easy to maneuver and the components can last for 20 years easily.  Your  12hp machine seems like it would be a killer and fun to use.  I’ve had 6 older MTD track machines and never had an issue with the tracks or drive components.  The friction disk MTD uses is about the thinnest in the industry so not a lot of “bite” on the drive plate and the material a bit soft compared to the better makers.  The good part is the rubber disk is inexpensive and easy to replace so not a big deal to burn them out.

 

   For the general question of can anything be done to improve the drive.   You can't really go in there and change the drive components like change a gear ratio.  As is you have a friction drive transfer to gears, good power even with the 208cc, so won't gain much if you could.  You have plenty of torque available and the components as is good enough to go into deep or compact snow comparable to any similar size snowblower.  Your front end will rise sooner but not enough to make a big difference.  If the 12 hp ballance is similar to the 208cc or forward a bit then you'll have an advantage but you could overtax that puny worm gear if you over tax the machine.

  I’m curious about what the guy did to “upgrade” the auger.  What was done?
This message was modified Dec 25, 2009 by trouts2
Replies: 2 - 4 of 4Next page of topicsPreviousAllView as Outline
Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Guide   •   Discussions  Reviews  
AbbysGuide.com   About Us   Terms of Use   Privacy Policy   Contact Us
Copyright 1998-2024 AbbysGuide.com. All rights reserved.