Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Hi

I bought a CraftsMan 24" 9.0TQ in Januray of this year(has all the bells and whistles but a damn lighteven Electric start)




I only got to use it for 4 hours total as the winter stunk

It has sat from Feb till now

I just drained the tank

What do I need to do before winter comes in a few months to get her going again(Do I grease anything)??

I can't seem to find a video/write up talking about what needs to be done

Also is it normal for the Blades to have surface rust will post a picture if needed

Thanks

Get and review your manual. If you did not get on you can get it at the Sears site. It is worth the effort to go over all the boring detail of setup and maintenance to insure the factory or reseller has setup the machine properly. Improperly setup machines can run for a number of years before you notice a glaring problem which could have been avoided.
Maintenance and gas cautions can be ignored for years but eventually catch up. If 5-7 years of use is all you expect from a machine then you don't need to do much maintenance. You can even skip yearly oil changes. If you want your machine to last 20-30 years a few hours of maintenance spread out over a year will be all that's needed. Lowly Murray and MTD machines are easily capable of lasting 25 years when they are used properly and good maintenance done.

>>Is rust normal:
Yes, things rust. If your storage location is damp it will rust. If you don't clean off your snowblower after use the snow will hang around for weeks making more chances for rust. Last week I went to a guys home who stored his snowblower in a shed. The shed was under trees and there was a lot of green mold growth on the sides and floor of the shed. He did not clean off his snowblower after using it so was always adding to the moisture inside the shed. Much of his machine was heavily rusted. The guy also did not drain his gas tank or bowl but given the conditions got away with it over the years. The machine was about 8-10 years old, started on the second pull and ran fairly well.
Depending on your storage conditions your machine could rust quickly or never rust. All machines come with enough protection to last many years without rust.

Maintenance info.

All snowblowers are sold with marketing names usually in large colored print on the bucket or dash of machines. They also have a factory model and serial number generally found on the back base of tractor section (the base where the wheels are located). Use the factory model number and serial number at the company website to get a manual.

MTD site for manuals:
http://manuals.mtdproducts.com/mtd/public/list.jsp

Ariens site for manuals:
http://apache.ariens.com/cgibin/ctrg0005?SESSIONID=28702a3ad72bf4c0aa733c4cb825206b&site=arienss

Toro site for manuals:
https://homeownersolutions.toro.com/portal/server.pt?space=CommunityPage&cached=true&parentname=CommunityPage&parentid=1&in_hi_userid=19462&control=SetCommunity&CommunityID=214&PageID=238#productDetailsPage

Tecumseh site for manuals:
http://www.outdoordistributors.com/Tecumseh/Tecumsehpartslists.html
There is a tag on the side of the engine which will have the factory model number.

If you are not familiar with snowblowers go to my website at:
www.kedawei.com/snowblower.htm

Gas:
Gas related issues are the biggest problems in non-performance. Avoid problems by simple care and maintenance. Most of the things mentioned below can be applied to all yard equipment like mowers and trimmers.

The issue is gas evaporates leaving a thin film on carburetor internal parts blocking proper flow of gas. That will make the engine difficult to start and run properly. Maintenance can be ignored for a few years as layers build up. How quick they build up depends on storage conditions. Problems can be avoided by draining the carburetor of gas during long periods of non-use (a month) and off-season storage.

1. Buy gas in small quantities so you are always using fresh gas.
2. Turn off the gas line if a gas shutoff is provided (usually under the tank).
3. If the gas tank does not have a shutoff then drain tank gas with a siphon. A hand pump siphon can be purchased for about three dollars and good to have available.
4. Once the tank is empty run the engine until it stops which will drain gas from the carburetor.
5. Some carburetor bowls have a push button on the bottom. Push the button and have a cup available to catch the gas coming out. Then run the engine to remove any remaining gas in the carburetor.
6. Gas stablizers can be used like Stable but the best insurance is to drain gas from the system.
7. If you start the season with fresh gas then you won't have to be concerned about long layovers of non-use i.e. two to three months.
8. Storage conditions affect the rate of evaporation of gas for example cool garage under a house or shed out in the sun which gets to 120 degrees in summer.

Starting Manual:
Throttle to 3/4 speed.
1-3 primes
Choke full on.
After starting reduce the engine speed quickly and progressively click back the choke until fully warm - about 5 minutes. It will be easier and more reliable to start in the winter. The carb's are designed for winter operation.

It will start most often on the first pull once you get to know your machine. If it gets to four something is wrong. It might be too much prime depending on the machine. Re-prime once and open the choke a notch or two (less choke).
If it becomes very difficult to start take out the spark plug to see if it's wet. If it's wet it's flooded and you could pull all day and it won't start. Set it aside to dry out. If it's dry it's not getting enough gas to start. More primes and choke are necessary.

Winter engines don't have an air cleaner and no auto-choke. They depend on the prime for the initial start but flood easily. Once you get to know your snowblower it will start easily.
.
Starting Electric start:
Setup to start as above. Plug in a heavy line cord to the receptacle on the top of the engine housing. Press the button on top for a 5 seconds. The engine should start. If it does not start by the second attempt check that the gas line is open, speed and choke are set and the carburetor primed. It should start quickly with electric start. If it does not start check the plug as described above. Note: Engaging the electric start for long periods will quickly burn out a starter. Only engage the starter for a few seconds which should be enough to get any engine in good shape started.

Will not start:
* Check gas level and fuel on off switch if fitted.
* Remove plug to check if wet (flooded). If wet let the machine dry for 20 minutes.
* If dry check gas, use more primes and more choke.
* Check spark. Remove plug, hold close to metal, and pull the starter rope. A spark should jump from the plug to metal.
* Do not hold the electric start on for a long time. If the engine does not start quickly something is wrong and running the starter for long periods will burn it out. The starters are very powerful and heat up quickly.

Running Rough:
Tecumseh engines on snowblowers are notorious for roughness. The carbs are jetted and tuned for full on under load where they should run their best. Newer carbs come with non-adjustable jets and tend to run lean due to EPA regulations. Roughness, sputtering and backfiring are common with these carbs.
The carbs have an open throat, there is no air filter on a Tecumseh snow engine. There is a tremendous rush of air into the carb. That can be verified by putting your hand close to the exhaust stream and feeling the intensity. All that air is rushing through the open carb throat. At times snow or water droplets can be sucked into the air stream causing the engine to sputter as they pass. Other than that the air going into a carb should be very clean unlike summer lawnmower conditions.
After warm up and blowing snow the engine should smooth out.

In season maintenance.

* Check engine oil at least every second use. Never overfill.
* Wax the snowblower at the start of the season to help keep snow and water off the machine (especially in the area of the barrel/round part by the chute..
* Always use fresh gas. Buy gas in 1 gallon at a time to keep gas fresh.
* Never pore gas from the bottom of the refill tank. There are dregs in most tanks.
* If the gas tank has a shutoff valve under the tank close it after use.
* Brush off snow after use to prevent puddling and rust. An old broom or car cleaning scraper with a brush are useful.
* Occasionally spray or oil all bolts, seams, and moving parts. Use PB Blaster, WD-40 or any oil like 5-30.
* Occasional spray on rust preventor/inhibitor to parts that do not have paint like any chipped paint, the skid bolts, and inside the bucket and chute. Must for Rust is available at HD. Leave the white film on. It looks bad but protects the metal.
* Apply oil inside the chute between the rim of the base and the chute. Drip oil on the mating parts so it will seep down.
* Never leave snow inside the impeller or auger housing area. It will with either freeze and lock the impeller or blades usually causing a belt to come off. If warm it the melt will puddle and cause rust.

Good oils are:
* PB Blaster for penetration of bolts and seams. Home Depot or most hardware stores.
* WD-40 for general fogging of all parts.
* Liquid grease. Any marine grease for moving parts. Marine grease is water proof. Get a 1 inch paint brush for easy application and keep it with the grease. Wallmart.
* White Lithium spray grease, good for hard to reach places. Sticks well. Wallmart.
* Paste grease is ok for moving parts. Apply with a paintbrush. Wallmart.
* Grease for auger gearbox. 90 weight EP (Extra Presssure) rated liquid grease 5GL.
* For applying oils, liquid grease and paste grease use a cheap under a dollar 1/2 to 1 inch paintbrush. Cut the ends to stiffen up the brush and keep it with the lubricants with the tip wrapped in a plastic baggie.

Rust inhibitor:

It is good to apply rust prevention spray to any and all parts of the machine. Housing, bolts, skids, impeller, auger blades, handle bars, dash area and underneath, springs, linkages, - - everything. The inhibitor will leave sometimes a white power which should be left on. It looks bad but will help to inhibit rust.

* Must for Rust available at Home Depot. It works very well on some rust but not all. It's worth the money and easy to apply. Sometimes leaves metal gray, black or covered in a thin white power.
* Harbor Freight sells a liquid similar to Must for Rust.
* Navel Jell is a jell which can be applied with a 1/2 inch paintbrush. It dissolves rust very well and leaves a nasty looking white film which is excellent long term protection. This is a better rust dissolver than Must for Rust. It leaves a better protective film than Must for Rust. The protective coating is ugly but will stay on the machine for several months even through rain.
* Rustoleum jell. Similar to Navel Jell.
* These agents work differently on different metals. Sometimes they will get parts back to gray metal with a few applications and light brushing in between.
* Once rust is worked down protect the base metal with occasional sprays of WD-40 or any light oil. Most rust removers can be painted over after a light brushing.
* Rustoleum rust inhibiting paint is very available in matching colors for snowblowers in small quantities. Once rust is worked off it's good to coat it with some protection.

Off season maintenance for a trouble and maintenance free winter.
* Drain the gas tank. Do not depend on stabilizers. Can be drained through the carburetor bowl. Remove bowl nut and catch gas into a container. Some bowls have a button on the bottom to drain gas. Have a cup handy.
* Run the engine until all gas is used. That drains the carburetor bowl.
* Wash down with water.
* Fog the machine with WD-40 or any spray oil.
* Put a table spoon of oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Pull the cord a few times to coat the cylinder walls. Pull the start cord lightly until the most pressure is felt. That will close the valves to air and put the piston at the top of the cylinder.
* Hit all bolts, exposed metal and chipped paint with rust inhibitor and later fog.
* Change engine oil. Use 5-30 weight natural or synthetic but good quality. A quart milk carton can be cut in half and used to route old oil from the outlet into funnel and waste container.
* Also, walk around the machine with a can of past grease and paintbrush and hit all nuts, control lever joints, nuts, especially skid bolts (good to hit with a touch of PB-Blaster first).
* Change or clean spark plug.
* Check auger gearbox level, refill with EP (Extra Pressure) grease. (Every second year).
* Lubricate all moving, non-moving parts, and seams.
* Apply rust proventor/inhibitor to any exposed parts.
* Store covered and if outside with a board under the intake housing.
* Grease zerk fittings, brush grease into auger axle areas and axle hub areas.
* Stand the machine on its bucket and remove the bottom panel. Grease all parts inside with marine grease, oil chain than grease, grease and oil all moving parts and bearings. ( Every second year).
* Turn the choke to full on which will close the internal butterfly.
* Storage should be in a dry place which does not get overly hot. If outdoors covered so rain does not splash up under the cover. An intake housing should rest on a board and not on the ground. The machine should be moved a few times so the tires are not always resting on the same spot. If stored in a shed be sure not to leave gas in the tank or bowl even with Stable.

In general:

* Change the oil every season - essential for long life. Should be done as soon as possible after the season.
* Check oil every second use.
* Apply oil to parts - often
* Apply rust preventor - often.
* Open the tractor area every two years, degrease, clean and re-grease every second year.
* Check the auger gearbox grease level every second season.
* Always care about the gas. Drain the bowl if the machine will be idle for over a month. Definitely drain the tank and bowl at the end of each season.

Skid and scraper height determine how close to the ground the snowblower will pick up snow. If set too low and the auger blades will scrape which is very bad as it puts extreme pressure on the gearbox. Too high and snow will not be completely picked up. Adjust for your driveway conditions. If you have a bumpy driveway then when the skids are on a low point the auger blade will scrape. Adjust your clearing to avoid high spots being in the center of the intake housing. Travel over the high spots with the skids.
The scraper bar at the bottom of the intake housing and the skids are meant to wear away and be replaces. Keeping the wear on these parts will preserve the rest of the machine.
Let the snowblower chew and throw snow at a comfortable rate. By not overtaxing the machine it will be capable of many years of use.

David Kirkpatrick
Ke Dawei
http://www.kedawei.com
http://www.kedawei.com/snowblower.htm

Great info trouts. 


One more thing I didn't see mentioned, maybe I missed it.. But take off the wheels and anti seize or grease the axle...  When those wheels rust seize on, its not fun trying to get them off at all.. happen to me after one season of use on brand new machine..  Grease em up now, its worth it!

Yo Denis:

Considering the exhaustive research and excellent level of detail in Trout's reply, I'd recommend that you put that up at the top of the page as a permanent item.

Excellent work Trouts!

Thank you for that big reply

I did not see anything said about Greasing the Owger shaft

Was just told today that I should grease it,Not sure on what Kind of Grease to use through

also it's stored in my Garage,I also should say when I had ice I just left it melt

Yes. Grease the auger shaft. I use marine grease which works well in cold wet conditions. Snowmobile grease is very good as well. In a pinch, any grease you can get in there will at the very least keep it from rusting and seizing.

Very Sweet. keep it up an it will last 20 years...



Friiy

Hi again

Would anyone know what size "TIP" you use for your Grease gun to grease the Auger shaft,

I can not find any info on this and my owners manual tells me when I should grease the shaft(every 25 hours or every season) but doesn't say what size the nipple is on the auger even says what kind of grease to use

I even went to sears and they have never heard of having to grease the auger shaft(Manager Women says we have never done that and have owned one for 20 years)

I don't want to spend $20 on a 50PCS kit for one "Tip" for my Grease Gun to figure the size out you know

I can get a nice close up picture of the Nipple if that will help anyone with telling me the size

I even have the part number but doesn't give me any info on sears site

I never thought maintaining a snow blower is this hard

KMG14 wrote:

I thought the tips of zerk fittings were a standard size (the threaded ends come in different sizes, but that doesn't matter).  I would think any grease gun that has a press-on zerk coupler style end would work for you.

Do you have a link to that 50PCS kit?

I don't know what Zerk Fittings are so I'm lost on that

Here is the link to the fittings,not much info at all

http://www.princessauto.com/engines/fuel-lubricants/grease/8262602-100-pc-metric-grease-fittings?keyword=grease

I also see they have Metric and SAE ones

http://www.princessauto.com/engines/fuel-lubricants/grease/4270294-100-pc-sae-grease-fitting-kit?keyword=grease

This is the Gun I was thinking of buying

http://www.princessauto.com/engines/fuel-lubricants/grease/8084063-pistol-grip-grease-gun?keyword=grease+gun

I looked at the pics of your machine, and I don't actually see any zerk fittings on the augers, unless they happened to be turned to the back side out of view.  Perhaps someone familiar with Craftsmans can comment on whether they have them, or double check your manual to be sure.  It should say under the maintenance section.

At any rate, if you have them they would look something like this.  This is on my Ariens.  The zerks are circled in red.  The shear bolt is circled in blue.  The shear bolt should be removed so that when you pump grease into the zerks, you can spin the auger blades around freely to spread the grease around the auger shaft evenly inside.  Pump grease into them until you see it push out the end of the auger shaft.  The goal is to fill the space with grease to keep water and rust out.  Replace the shear bolt when you are finished.

Here is a close up of the zerk fitting so you can see what it looks like.  It is wider in the middle so that the tip of the grease gun can "snap" onto it.

Here is what the grease gun looks like.  The 4 flanges inside the end are what snap onto the zerk.  You can see grease in the middle of them here.

Hope this helps.