Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Spring is almost here, and we been getting quite a few 60F plus days.  While waiting for the last snow storm/blizzard to arrive before preparing the snowblower for summer and fall hibernation, I thought I get in the spring cleaning mode and get my lawn equipment up and running. 

Besides getting new fuel lines, fuel filter, air filter, and a new spark plug, what is the proper way to service a diaphram carburetor?  What's involved?

Also, I need a new bump feed head.  Any recommendations on the quick and easy loading heads from Stihl, Shindaiwa-Echo brands?

aa335:

How old is the machine?  

Call me old school but when it comes to small two stroke OPE engines, all I do is clean the spark plug, air filter and make sure the screen in the exhaust is either cleaned or preferably, removed.  If the fuel lines look good and the filter is passing fuel, don't bother with them.  I've got 30 year old equipment with small two cycle engines running on original fuel lines and some are even still running with original plugs.  Two strokes are pretty simple.  If you keep your fuel clean, air filter, spark plug and exhaust clean during the season, chances are it will run very many years without problems.  One tip I'd like to offer is to run Seafoam through your fuel system.  I usually mix about four oz. to two gallons of two cycle fuel.  That will last most of the season.  Second tip:  If the carb's doing it's job, don't mess with it.  If it is malfunctioning, you'll have to buy a rebuild kit for it which is usually a couple of diaphragms and a spacer or two.  Be very, very careful during dis-assembly.  Some of the small diaphragm carbs have tiny spring(s) in them that seem to evaporate once the carb is opened up.   One other thing to watch for is the throttle cable.  Make sure it's not binding anywhere and ensure that it moves freely.  If it's stiff, put some light machine oil into the cable.   Finally, if you have an access port for adding lube to the trimmer head gear drive, you might want to check and add some lube if required.   

Regarding the trimmer head.  I bought an Echo a few years ago that uses two ten inch pieces of fairly thick line that fit into a locking cam.   They are pretty much bullet proof but do require fairly frequent changing if trimming along concrete surfaces.  I usually pack half a dozen or so in my pocked if I'm doing around the house and along the curb which is probably five hundred feet or so.  I usually buy a big roll or the correct diameter string then cut a supply of pieces to last the season.         

borat wrote:

The string trimmer is a 4 stroke that's about 10 years old.  The fuel pickup line is crumbly and the filter is coated with slime.  The fuel pickup and return lines was replaced with a silicone fuel line.  The fuel filter was replaced as well.  The plug is dirty but I havent replaced it yet.  I thought I should get my fuel system sorted out before dirtying a new plug.  Starts up after 2-3 pulls and runs steady on idle after it has warmed up.  Throttle is now responsive and the engine no longer stall out at full throttle.  From your suggestion, I should leave the carb alone since it seems to run normally. 

What is SeaFoam?  Is that a fuel preservative or a carb cleaner?  How do I use it to clean a diaphram carb?  I'm currently using Sta-Bil on my OPE because that's the one I'm familiar with.  Have not come across SeaFoam at the stores.

aa335 wrote:
Sea Foam: http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGasSmall.htm

Try NAPA if you have one near you, the ones around here stock it and other people on the forum have mentioned they get it there also, so maybe they all do.

Thanks Bill_H for the Seafoam application link.  From the quick read, SeaFoam seems like an engine tune-up in a bottle. 

I'll look for it at auto parts store and give it a try.

aa335:

You're obviously on the right track changing fuel lines/filters that need it.  If the carb is working fine, don't mess with it.   Chances are that it's not in that much of a need for dis-assembly to clean it.  A season of using Seafoam will take care of that. 

I used to use Stabil up until a few years ago when I found a bottle in my garage that had turned to a gel.  It wasn't even a year old.  Ever since then, it's been Seafoam all the way.   I went on an engine tune up/cleaning spree a couple of years ago.  All two stroke engines in a couple of chain saws, brush cutters, outboard motors and a four stroke lawn mower.   The effects of additives such as Seafoam etc. are difficult to measure.  I have found through experience that often, there will be no change in the engine's performance.  Understandable if the engine is well maintained and in good running order.  However, I did notice a considerable improvement in a 25 year old  Tecumseh two cycle engine on a Jiffy ice auger.  It had not seen much use and when I fired it up, it wouldn't rev out well, and overall ran poorly.  I put a full oz. of Seafoam into half a quart of fuel and ran that through the engine for a while.  It smoked quite a bit for a while, coughed and sputtered as per how it was running.  After three or four minutes, it began to smooth out and within five minutes, it was running like new.  That confirmed to me that the Seafoam actually works.  Now I run a bit of it each year through all of my engines.   I use a bit of a stronger mixture in my two cycle mixed fuel just to keep fuel systems in good shape.  It also works well for taking water out of fuel.   I run it in my car, truck, and eight motorcycle engines from my six cylinder liquid cooled Valkyrie to my single cylinder two stroke dirt bike.  Not saying that it's just because of the Seafoam but everything is running top notch.    

borat wrote:

Sounds like a good practice for preventative maintenance on OPE.  I would use SeaFoam periodically on the string trimmer since the diaphram carb is a polymer.  I don't want to quickly deteriorate it by using too much of cleaners of any kind.  You are correct, a well maintained and good running engine does not see much improvement in performance since fuel additives are not power boosters.

I'm hesitant to use SeaFoam in my car though.  There is so much emission control and computers that it may throw a diagnostic code.  I don't tinker with new car engines with OBD-2 since it is beyond my knowledge. 

I treated a 02 VW Golf with a gas engine. The car had about 150 000 km on it. I did the gas tank, air breather and brake booster. Smoked a lot. I tend to drive like an old man suffering from motion sickness, so my car was gunked up. I was amazed. Not a subtle increase in this and that, the engine ran like it did the day I bought it. I was skeptical about sensors and everything, but I never had a problem.

I don't know why more people don't use it.

aa335 wrote:

If you read the instructions on the can, I believe it states that is "oxygen sensor" safe.   I wouldn't worry about the polymer diaphragms either.   The mix ratio is pretty low. 

Seafoam has been around for a long time.  It's been a well kept secret and is not as readily available as Stabil.  Do a little research on it.  You'll be surprised how many people swear by it.

JohnnyBoyUpNorth wrote:

How long have you been using Seafoam Johnny?

JohnnyBoyUpNorth wrote:
Never had a problem with carbon build up on my car.  I let her breathe all the way to redline and stretch her legs daily.