Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Considering the latest rush on lubing snow throwers, I've finally decided to let the forum in on a couple top secret lubrications that I use.

These two products are for industrial applications such as exposed chains, cables, shafts, bushings etc.  It's black & very tacky but being in a spray can, goes on as easy as can be.  It sticks to stuff like sh!t on a blanket and lasts like nothing else.   I didn't buy this stuff.  I have a friend that worked at a pulp mill who had a supply of  it.  So you might have to do some searching on the INTERNET to track it down. 

I like it primarily because I can spray it on the chains inside the chassis.  I cover the friction drive surfaces with a rag and with the straw on the nozzle, I can direct the spray closely and accurately on the chain only, not all over the inside of the chassis.  If you can find this stuff, you'll like it. 

I'm no expert, by any means, but I've had good success with SuperLube grease. It's widely available (in a silver/gray tube) at ACE Hardware. That on chains and teeth combined with synthetic motor oil on the shafts and WD-40 on cables has proven sufficient for our Wisconsin winters. But I'm a newbie with a relatively new machine -- just thought I'd put it out there.

  Chain and cable lubes are all pretty similar.  I use the Loctite "Gear, Chain, and Cable Lube" but if you're applying it regularly it really doesn't matter which one you use.  Yes, they work great for wire ripe, chain, and open gears.  You can get chain lube at any bike shop, or you can go to Fastenal or any other industrial-ish supplier and ask for chain and cable lube and they'll have something or other.
  White Lithium grease is the industry standard for a grease that won't wash off easily.  It's not the ultimate, but it's easy to get, inexpensive, and works well.   Some people call it 'marine grease'.  The ultimate would be a calcium sulphonate grease, but that's normally only used on heavy industrial equipment in very adverse conditions.

I.M.Mike

Borat, your comments reminded me of a well intentioned someone I know who decided it was time to do some maintenance and a thorough lubrication of his snowblower. Upon completion he was dismayed to find that while the auger turned, the machine would not move in any direction. You know the rest of the story... he was very diligent in greasing everything, including the friction wheels!

Thanks for the tip on the lubes. I'm no expert but I came across Bardahl chain lube & it seems to work well. I used it when I had the drive train disassembled, and it came out of the can a little foamy & runny but soon gelled up quite nicely. I don't know how well it would work if applied in the cold, because the directions say to pre-heat the chain with a 5 minute ride before you use it.

Cheers, Paul

That's why it's important to use a product that will seep into chain links then get very tacky quickly.   The black spray grease I use is god awful stuff to have to clean up after being applied.  It sticks like gorilla snot.  I'm very careful how I apply it and I make sure I have a piece of cardboard on the garage floor to catch any drips if I get sloppy.  Once it's on and set up, it lasts and lasts.

The problem with light oil is that while it penetrates, it doesn’t protect the chain and sprockets as well as heavy oil. The problem with "sticky" lubes is that they hold any dirt or grit they come in contact with and you end up with an abrasive paste rather than a lubricant. The best stuff I have found for chains is called Tri-Flow. It’s a light penetrating oil that displaces water, but it contains microscopic particles of Teflon that protect the chain and sprockets better than oil alone can do. The big market for it is bicycles, but I used it on my on and off road motorcycles for over 20 years with excellent results. It’s probably overkill for snow thrower chains, but it will certainly do the job.

I agree with the tacky stuff attracting and holding grit.  However, any lubrication will do that albeit to a lesser degree.  I have used a variety of chain lubes on my bikes.  My KLR650 has been a test bed for a number of designated chain lubes as well as the stuff I use on the snow blower.   I use O ring chains which, theoretically don't require manual lubrication.  I've read extensively on the subject as well as participate in forums where very experienced (read older) riders have tried various lubes over the years.  Most of them have concluded that WD-40 applied every 300 to 400 miles will extend chain life on a dual purpose bike being ridden in mixed conditions to well over 30000 miles.  Some objectors believe that WD-40 will wash out the grease being held in by the O rings.  That, apparently is untrue.  I have found that it will wash off grit and grime which would likely have an abrasive effect on the O rings if left unattended.  I've been using  WD-40 exclusively now for about 6000 miles.  I see no visible wear on chain or sprockets and have made one chain adjustment in the last 5000 miles or so.  The chain is looking very good but it only has 11000 miles on it so far. 

Being that snow throwing involves snow, water & salt, the black, tacky stuff on a snow thrower is perfect for that application.  There's no dust to worry about and it is resistant to washing off better than anything else I've seen or used.   Salty water will rust up components pretty fast.  On a snow thrower, the more resistant the lube is to washing off, the better. 

What mechanism do you know of that is exposed to the elements and often punished by rain, mud and sand? This mechanism also has to put up with occasional grass, twigs and more. It's called a bicycle gear and chain drive. For demanding outdoor applications requiring the optimum of lubing and rust prevention, I use hi grade chain lube from a bike store. DO NOT use WD-40. It is just too light and actually strips away some of the silicone lubricants that are apart of modern drives. For rust prevention, Crown Rust proofing spray is the best.

FYI, the Keystone doesn't seem to be easily obtained, but the Crown is available at acehardwareoutlet.com for 7.68 a can.
A place called toolfetch has it for  $79 a case, or  6.58 a can but seems to sell cases only.

I think I'll write both names down for the next time I am near my semi-local industrial hardware store.