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trouts2




Location: Marlboro MA
Joined: Dec 8, 2007
Points: 1328

Electronic ignition module won't fire
Original Message   Dec 11, 2008 1:16 pm
   I picked up a 1233.  The engine is a Tecumseh OHSK120 223618A with electronic ignition.  There was no spark. The prior owner said he had a trouble with spark and replaced the ignition module.  I tested for spark and there was no spark.  The engine has oodles of compression so I figured I'd just put in a new module so ordered one.

   After putting in the new module and setting the air gap to .012 I there is still no spark.  I disconnected the lead from the module per the Tecumseh manual in case of shorts but still no spark.

   On poking around the net descriptions of how modules trigger there is a mention the module passes a coil, an internal cap gets charged, the module continues past a trigger coil which switches a transistor to let the cap dischrge into the plug wire.  The magnets were a bit rusted so I filed them a little thinking the gap may be off or some of the rust spots too high.  They are pretty clean and the gap even. 

   I don't know if one of the two flywheel magnets is the trigger magnet or if some part is missing.  The flywheel has two part magnet and it does seem to have good strenth when pulling in a screwdriver.  The gap is set.  What else could be wrong other than a defective module?

david

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trouts2




Location: Marlboro MA
Joined: Dec 8, 2007
Points: 1328

Re: Electronic ignition module won't fire
Reply #10   Dec 13, 2008 1:24 pm

Friiy,

   Interesting on the being out of alignment and still working.  It seems right.  The input coil is potted inside away from the magnets and iron legs.  So it’s isolated. 

   I was eyeballing the air gap at first but as things went downhill I used a feeler gauge and had the gap to .012.  The spec calls for .0125 so that’s close enough.

   For my meter readings, again I only have a 100,000K scale and looking at the drawings I could be reading through diode or input coil so the reading could be quite low and my 100,000K scale not sensitive enough.  The batteries on my digital gave out so during testing so I could not go back and check again. 

   I also don’t think the modules are bad and bogus part of the equation is something I’m doing wrong and missing.  It should be, slap a module on, set the air gap, remove ground from the kill tab, spin the flywheel and get a spark.  ?? 

trouts2




Location: Marlboro MA
Joined: Dec 8, 2007
Points: 1328

Re: Electronic ignition module won't fire
Reply #11   Dec 13, 2008 4:36 pm
Friiy,

   After reading what you wrote and convinced that at least one of the modules must be good I gave testing another shot.  This time while messing around I got a tingle through my fingers while holding the tester with my finger between it and the block.  I could get consistant tingles and after a while of adjusting the setup finally got a few sparks.  I put in the new module and got tingles and a few sparks.   The original 12hp would not give tingles or spark. 

   I think the problem was a few things, broken spark tester for a while and a bogus test bed.  For a while I had the flywheel on the crank but the crank was not supported by the case cover.  After a while I put the cover on but not fully closed or attached.  For a while I also did not have the flywheel nut on so a few things were shakey with the test bed.  It will test modules but was inconsistant so the next step is to get a broken motor and set it up as a perminant test bed.  Actually two motors - one for points and one for SSI.

    Your last post was encouraging to not buy another module and give the test bed another shot.

UPDATE:

    Put the new coil on the 12hp and it fired up.  Fantastic.  1. That there spark and 2. The motor runs very well.  This motor had big kick back when turning the flywheel in reverse by hand so good compression but this is the first oppertunity to see if it would actually run. 

Thanks for the help,

David 

This message was modified Dec 13, 2008 by trouts2
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