Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Is there a simple way to disconnect the governor arm from the carborator? I've removed the bolts that hold the carb on but it won't slide off (It needs cleaned big time) because the of the linkage to the governor arm (wire rod and spring).  The shop manual says to remove one of the two screws that hold it on, but I'm not sure which one should be removed or what will happen to the governor if I do remove them.  I have heard that governors are really hard to adjust and I was trying to avoid that agrevation.  I've labels the two screws "A" and "B"  (one of them is really a bolt).

I got the pin out (finally), got the float and needle off. I squirted some carb cleaner in the fuel intake but nothing would come out the needle valve hole. Then I hooked up a compressor and with a nozzle I blew compressed air through the intake. It took a while (3 or 4 tries) but the air came through. There did not seem to be an object clogging the line. It seemed more like fuel deposits built up on the walls of the small orifice of the carburetor. I still have not been able to free the jets. I ground down a custom screwdriver and carefully wrapped the shaft in tape to keep from damaging the threaded walls of the shaft. I let the carb soak overnight in penetrating oil. I borrowed a pencil torch but I'm really nervous about heating this thing up. What if I melt it or crack it? I have had all sorts of interesting adventures with the propane torch. Any thoughts?

I would not use that torch, you are going to catch yourself on fire.... Try a torch like this.

These torchs are cheep and run on butane,    with this you can heat only the jet can keep the carb cool.  ( as long as you don't go crazy)...

If you can't get that jet / nozzle out,  I would try to run the carb with with out pulling it out...  ( If the carb fails to run, take it back apart and  keep working at it)

Remember to only heat the brass jet, It will (may) swell with heat and break it's bond with the carb body.  I would keep a wet shop towel around the carb body to keep it form getting hot. it should only take a few seconds..

I think alot of places sell these small pencil torches or similar,  I bought one at harbour Freight and one at Lowes made by Weller...

Good Luck,          

Friiy

OK, that was a close one, glad I didn't go crazy with the extra large sized pencil torch.  Instead I went out to the garage and got the lighter I use to start the grill. Seems to have done the job because the jet screw finally let go. I  held the carb body with a damp cloth and only heated the jet screw for three seconds. Then gave the screw a four nice taps with the screwdriver and small hammer.  It worked.  Thanks for the image of the small pencil torch, like they say; " a picture is worth a thousand words."     The custom ground screwdriver was a life saver.  Only about a third of the jets were clogged when I spayed carb cleaner through them to clean them out.

Cool,   Is the throttle shaft and choke shaft turning free?    If you shoot carb cleaner through the adjustment needle on the side of the carb, can you see spray on the inside of the carb venturi next to the throttle shaft (it should come out small holes there..  On that carb there is 2 or 3 holes ).

I would start by flushing the fuel tankand check for gummy brown deposits on the bottom... check your fuel lines for rot,  inside and out (The inside gets gummy like wet bread).

You may want to get a small fuel filter for the fuel line,  I like the cheap small paper ones that VW bugs used,  they are see through and you can spot water and dirt in them..

Does this have a fuel pump?,   If so you may need to flush or replace the diaphrams and gaskets..

If so put it back together ans see if it starts.    See if it leaks when it sits, you may need to replace the fuel inlet needle...

Good luck,

Friiy

friiy wrote:

Is the adjustment needle that  you are refering to identified as #6 in the diagram above?  Sure, I can try to spray carb cleaner in there. I do not know where the venturi is or where its small holes might be. 

I did clean out the gas tank and flushed out the gas lines.  I could not locate replacement diaphrams for the (Mikuni?) fuel pump so I chickened out on the idea of opening it up. I just soaked it an flushed it out a few times. It does seem to be working.  I would agree with your recommendation for a fuel filter. I think this is the weak link in the fuel delivery system.  There's a small sediment bowl under the gas tank and a filter screen on top of the tank for large particulates. But there is nothing to filter the finer particles.  That said, I would not want a fuel filter that would interrupt the function and flow of the fuel pump.  

Sorry,  The venturi is the narrowest part of the carb throat...   The holes I am talking about are where the throttle butterfly wipes past the inside wall of the carb as the butterfly opens from fully closed postion.. on the same side of course as the needle adjustment screw.

Have you tried to start that thing up yet?  Or check for leaks?....   It  should start/run,  you just need to find out if you need to replace the inlet needle at this point.

Friiy

I have been dying to go get the carb back on and try it out. But family stuff got in the way all weekend.  The needle valve looks good to me but I would like to polish the small channel that it slides up in to. I noticed before that it would sometimes stick or hesitate when it moved up or down.  The snowblower has not run in a long time and I thought I would put some fresh oil in the crank case. Here's an image of the needle's  tip . 

 

You can polish the channel it rides in,  but do not polish the area that the rubber tip seats at...  

Friiy

friiy wrote:
The carb is completely back together..  Maybe I should have assembled the main jet using anti- seize.  It was so tough to get out. But I didn't .  I'll be amazed if the the large O-ring gasket around the top of the bowl doesn't   leak.  A new one is close to $20, so I take my chances for now.  

The large bowl rubber  ring is not nuch of a seal,   fuel only reaches that point when the engine is tipped. or if the inlet needle is leaking past overfilling the carb...

Friiy...