Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Is there a simple way to disconnect the governor arm from the carborator? I've removed the bolts that hold the carb on but it won't slide off (It needs cleaned big time) because the of the linkage to the governor arm (wire rod and spring).  The shop manual says to remove one of the two screws that hold it on, but I'm not sure which one should be removed or what will happen to the governor if I do remove them.  I have heard that governors are really hard to adjust and I was trying to avoid that agrevation.  I've labels the two screws "A" and "B"  (one of them is really a bolt).

This is good advice.  I can do this.  I'll get busy grinding down my screwdrivers.

I don't know why the jets and nozzle woul be critical to the carb getting gas into the bowl.  The fact that the bowl remains dry seems strange to me.     When I removed the carb the bowl it is still empty. I know for a fact that the float is working and that the little needle valve on the spring is dropping down (to open and let fuel in) but no gas is dropping into the bowl.  The carb is fed by a small diaphram fuel pump and that is working (there's gas under pressure when I remove the fuel line connection to the carb).  So why is the gas not dropping into the bowl?  I don't think its the jets, their job is to mix the air and fuel.  Am I right about this.  This has me baffled.

You must have something stuck in the fuel inlet for the carb,  try blowing compredded air through the the fuel inlet and see if somethin falls out...

Is the fuel line rotted at all internally,  I have seen the inside of black fuel line turn to mush and get rolled into the inlet when the fuel line is reattached..(like a ball of chewing gum)..

Good Luck

Friiy

Sure I have compressed air. I flushed out the gas lines and they did not seem bad at all.   I'm guessing I should blow the compressed air with a nozzle through the line from the end where the needle seats above the bowl.  so I don't further cram whatever is in there down the line. Problem now is that the bowl pin does not slide. The pin is really tight.

Is there any way to loosen the pin?  I've been told by others that the TK carbs have very fragile arms that hold the pin.  Any ideas?

Put the carb back in the vice and tap it out lightly with a small punch (like 3/32 or so)    it"s gotta come out>>

friiy

friiy wrote:

 I have not been able to get the screw of the main jet  to budge. I did take a lighter and try to heat up the brass jet. I will try tapping with a hammer if I can find a way to hold the carb in a vise.  I have never seen a "soft sided vise" but I will look around for one of those.  I didn't have any "Mouse's Milk" or " Aero-kroll"  penetrating oil may but I did have some liquid wrench  so I put some of that on the brass of the jet.  i'm going to cross my fingers that the next time I get this carb on the bowl will fill with fuel. 

You can make the faces of the vice non-marring by putting something soft on the faces to grip the carb.

I use a small peice of aluminum sheet cut to go over the grip of the vice(for a smooth soft grip) .   This is used for cast parts...

I put a piece oif rubber over the vice face for hard plastics,   or a piece of linoleum flooring over the vice face for delicate machined parts (it has good grip)..

Sometimes I will use soft side of velcro for some small parts that slide around in the vice...

Or you can use some paint sticks,  once.... 

Ohhh.  I hold all this to the vice face with double sided carpet tape..

Keep us up-to-date

Friiy

I got the pin out (finally), got the float and needle off. I squirted some carb cleaner in the fuel intake but nothing would come out the needle valve hole. Then I hooked up a compressor and with a nozzle I blew compressed air through the intake. It took a while (3 or 4 tries) but the air came through. There did not seem to be an object clogging the line. It seemed more like fuel deposits built up on the walls of the small orifice of the carburetor. I still have not been able to free the jets. I ground down a custom screwdriver and carefully wrapped the shaft in tape to keep from damaging the threaded walls of the shaft. I let the carb soak overnight in penetrating oil. I borrowed a pencil torch but I'm really nervous about heating this thing up. What if I melt it or crack it? I have had all sorts of interesting adventures with the propane torch. Any thoughts?

I would not use that torch, you are going to catch yourself on fire.... Try a torch like this.

These torchs are cheep and run on butane,    with this you can heat only the jet can keep the carb cool.  ( as long as you don't go crazy)...

If you can't get that jet / nozzle out,  I would try to run the carb with with out pulling it out...  ( If the carb fails to run, take it back apart and  keep working at it)

Remember to only heat the brass jet, It will (may) swell with heat and break it's bond with the carb body.  I would keep a wet shop towel around the carb body to keep it form getting hot. it should only take a few seconds..

I think alot of places sell these small pencil torches or similar,  I bought one at harbour Freight and one at Lowes made by Weller...

Good Luck,          

Friiy

OK, that was a close one, glad I didn't go crazy with the extra large sized pencil torch.  Instead I went out to the garage and got the lighter I use to start the grill. Seems to have done the job because the jet screw finally let go. I  held the carb body with a damp cloth and only heated the jet screw for three seconds. Then gave the screw a four nice taps with the screwdriver and small hammer.  It worked.  Thanks for the image of the small pencil torch, like they say; " a picture is worth a thousand words."     The custom ground screwdriver was a life saver.  Only about a third of the jets were clogged when I spayed carb cleaner through them to clean them out.