Abby's Guide to Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more)
Username Password
Discussions Reviews More Guides
Abby’s Guide > Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) > Discussions > ariens 8hp 24 in mod910018 bearing housing cracked

Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Search For:
disk1


Joined: Feb 19, 2007
Points: 4

ariens 8hp 24 in mod910018 bearing housing cracked
Original Message   Feb 19, 2007 9:43 am
Hope someone can help.  My old ariens needs a new friction disc so I purchased and went to put on.  I then saw the aluminum bearing housing has a break in it and I cannot figure out how to get friction disk on and I don't know if I want to tackle the bearing housing.  How tough is this going to be on me.  Help.

Thanks

dan

Replies: 5 - 6 of 6Next page of topicsPreviousAllView as Outline
disk1


Joined: Feb 19, 2007
Points: 4

Re: ariens 8hp 24 in mod910018 bearing housing cracked
Reply #5   Feb 20, 2007 12:12 pm
Ralph and Mech12,

Thanks for the advice.  My unit has drive system with hex shaft inside of frame.  It doesn't look like I can slide the wheel left or right to get off shaft.  It looks like I drop the whole drive unit out.

The housing that is cracked is a #10547.  Just one ear is broken and it doesn't seem to affect the performance so I might leave it.

Thanks again.

dan

RalphS


There's a reason for more than one snowblower.
Because.
1974 Ariens 824 SnoThro
197? Ariens ST270 SnoThro
1988 Ariens ST824 SnoThro
196? REO Snowblower
1960 Ariens SnoThro
1964 Ariens SnoThro


Location: MA
Joined: Dec 21, 2004
Points: 70

Re: ariens 8hp 24 in mod910018 bearing housing cracked
Reply #6   Feb 20, 2007 9:51 pm

Dan-

I searched for some of my previous posts and this is still there:

These are the instructions from the Ariens manual.  The part descriptions are kind of vague, but once you get into things, you should be able to figure it out.  The item descriptions in the instructions from Ariens don’t necessarily match the item descriptions in the exploded parts view, so that’s really what took the longest the first time I did this. 

Anyway, I’ve added a few of my comments where I remembered them.  It’s been a while since I replaced the disk on my SnoThro, so I can’t offer much more detail than what I have already added.  I used a general purpose Moly/Lithium grease for the sliding surfaces.  “Left” and “right” refer to the machine as if you were operating it. 

 

  1. Disconnect spark plug. 
  2. I tilted my SnoThro forward for easier access, this may or may not work for you, depending on how much gas is in the tank. 
  3. Remove bottom cover (two screws on the back come all the way out; two screws on the bottom have “keyhole” slots, just loosen these two).
  4. Shift to second speed.
  5. Remove the cotter pin and washer from the “shift connecting link” (this is the short link indirectly attached to the shift lever).
  6. On the right-hand side, remove the two screws that secure the shift lever bracket to the frame, then remove the bracket from the frame.  Just let it hang out of the way. 
  7. Remove the master link from the drive chain (this can be messy and a pain, try to set the chain so that the link is easily accessible.  Remove the chain.  It wasn’t easy getting back on in my situation. 
  8. Remove the cotter pin from the right and left side “connecting brackets”.  These are short rods on either side of the machine.  These brackets will just hang down. 
  9. Remove the cotter pin from the “fork shaft”.  This cotter pin is located on the left side of the machine- it should be visible just above the adjustment mechanism and below the left handlebar. 
  10. Slide fork shaft to the left side of the frame (be careful not to slide fork shaft beyond bracket assembly) until the whole drive wheel assembly can rotate down and towards you. 
  11. Hold the hex shaft in place with a wrench, then remove the five screws from the friction wheel hub. 
  12. Hold the hex shaft again, then remove the hex nut from the right side of the hex shaft. 
  13. Remove the four lock nuts from the bearing flange left side (these are the four locknuts near the chain side of the machine). 
  14. Pull hex shaft to the left and remove friction wheel and friction wheel hub. 
  15. You could also inspect the bearings inside both the left and right side bearing flanges at this point also.  Mine were a little loose three years ago, but I didn’t have opportunity at the time to replace them.  They seem to still be fine. 

 

Reassembly is basically the opposite.  Ensure that BOTH right and left connecting brackets are in position when you rotate the drive wheel assembly back into place. 

It probably wouldn’t hurt to clean the metal driven surface with some alcohol to remove any grease while you’re in there. 

I lightly greased the sliding shaft parts while apart.  Wipe off any excess before reassembly. 

I also wiped some grease onto the chain (on the inside, where the sprockets contact the chain). 

As I mentioned, some of the descriptions are vague (along with my recollection), but this is my post from January of 2005.  If you need any more help, don't hesitate to post again.  As I mentioned before, I can send you the manual pages, but they really don't help much more. 

Good Luck.

Ralph

Replies: 5 - 6 of 6Next page of topicsPreviousAllView as Outline
Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Guide   •   Discussions  Reviews  
AbbysGuide.com   About Us   Terms of Use   Privacy Policy   Contact Us
Copyright 1998-2024 AbbysGuide.com. All rights reserved.