Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

Howdy,

I'm posting here in hopes someone can enlighten me.  I purchases a 926LE  new this year.  I did the set up procedures to ensure all was good and within specs.  I consider myself handy enough to do that competently.  I live in the Minneapolis area and got a chance to test the new blower today on about 3-4 inches of very light powder with about 6-7 inches EOD. I will preface this post by saying I'm a noob when it comes to snow blowers, my only experience being with a borrowed John Deere TRS 26.

Now  I know this isn't the best test of the machine, but hey, it's what we were dealt.  Here's what was going on.  When I started out, I had 1 wheel unlocked and this thing was almost impossible to keep straight--ok, no problem, lock other wheel.  Now, it still wandered around like a half drunk snake--not wide fluctuactions, but like short jerks on a steering wheel in a car.  It got better as the machine ran, so maybe  it was just something settling  in.  The really dissappointing part was when I hit the EOD.  Like I said, maybe 7-8 inches of piled  powder.  In low gear, the machine climbed up and over the pile without really blowing anything.  Ok,  so next pass, I tried a higher gear, same thing.  It seems like there is not enough weight on the front end to keep it down.  If  I tried to lift up a little on the handles, the tires would  spin.  My neighbor's John Deere had  no trouble next  door.  It took me almost an hour to clear a 40x60 drive that is basically flat.  I don't know maybe I had my expectations to high.  After looking at the Ariens & John Deere side by side, the Ariens body is about 8-10 inches longer, which moves the CG point back due to  the position of the engine.  While that does help for moving the machine around the garage, it seems to be a problem in the snow. 

The machine also would only throw the snow about 18-20 ft, but, I'm going to chalk that up to power with no mass behind it at this point.  One other question---on the scraper height--I put a finishing nail under each edge & adjusted the shoes.  It's about 1/8' all across.  Does that sound about right?

Anyone have any similar experiences or at least tell me what I experienced today was normal. Thanks in advance

Thomasd,

You really get the 926le to start with1 pull?  I primed & choked and pulled as recommended about 6 or 7 times without even a fire.  Hit the electric start and even it cranked for about 2-3 seconds before it fired.  But then again, it was -8 outside, so that could  have something to do with it.  When I test ran it earlier, it did start pretty easy and the  temp was around  25-30. 

Also,  out of curiosity, does anyone tecumseh "load up" when at low idle?  I had the macine idling for about 1-1.5 minutes and when I revved it back up, it belched blue/white smoke like a diesel going up a hill under a load.  Lasted about 1 puff then ran like a charm.  Just wondering if this is a trait of the Tecumseh--Always been B&S guy myself

Again, I appreciate the advice from  all

There's only one other thing to try before trying some extra weight on the front end, everything else seems to have been checked out. Use the blower as a plow, once you have a load of snow out front disengage the traction system and blip the augers. Once you've done it a couple of times you can try it without stopping.

If that doesn't work try adding some weight to the front end.

When I first got it I could not start it with the rope at all.I had to prime it as i was cranking it with the electric start to get it to even fire.  The gas I was using was left from the grass cutting season. Not that old but old enough to cause it to start hard. I use stabil in my gas can now when I purchase gas. Man I swear by that stuff. Yes it Starts one pull every time now.  The key to priming it is to pause between primes about one second.  I prime it four times with the choke on and the throttle at full.  Hope you get some fresh snow to get it out on. We are getting about 8-12 tommorrow.   

I have a new Aniens 11528LE and unfortunately I beleive that Ariens suffers from design problems caused by their own marketing department.  They chose to differentiate their 11.5hp deluxe model from their 11.5hp professional model by downgrading the deluxe model in three areas.  A different engine (fine), a different gear case (fine), and smaller tires (NOT fine).  The smaller tires that they chose to install on their 926LE and 11528LE models only saves Ariens pennies but costs the machines dearly in performance. 

I'm convinced that the smaller, narrower tires contribute the machine losing important traction when faced with hard plowed snow and may even contribute to problems keeping the machine running in a straight line.  They use the larger tires on their smaller 8.5hp classic model...why in the world would they put smaller tires on a larger heavier machine like the 11.5hp deluxe model???

As far as the optional weight kit for the front end...it is to help keep the machine from riding up over heavy plowed snow. 

From Ariens Website:  "Front Weight Kit  (#724065)  Provides added extra weight to the front of the Sno-ThroŽ when working with heavy frozen snow.  MSRP: $49"

I don't know why I have to buy an optional accessory in order for my machine to handle basic jobs.  I had an Ariens 5hp machine and while it did my driveway okay it always struggled with plowed snow at the end of my driveway.  My neighbors on either side of me would come over with their snowblowers and clear the plowed snow  for me.  One has a 10 yr old 8hp John Deere and the other has a 7hp Toro...both go through the plowed snow like butter. 

When I bought the 11.5hp Ariens I thought that my problems with plowed snow were over because it weighs over twice what mt 5hp Ariens weighed.  But unfortunely weight alone won't overcome design problems.  Another curious fact is that the engine on my 11.5hp machine is listed as having the same displacement (318cc) as their 9hp machine.  Perhaps Ariens is just going downhill. 

Paul7,

Go to Lowes or HD, buy some bar steel, cut to length, drill holes to match your blower.

Then paint and install on your blower, might cost you $15.00 total!!!!

My Husky blower came with the weight kit!!!

Fred

Paul7:

I believe my 1128DLE pro has the same 11.5HP engine as yours. The differential and cast iron auger gear case are the major differences with a few minor ones. I have wide SnowHogs and they still can sink in the snow as they dig down to the pavement.

I never had a problem with snow until the last big storm a month ago. Professionals landscapers with all kinds of big machines were "venting" at the local McDonalds as they were literally "spinning their wheels" all day trying to move 2 inches of ice and 18 inches of snow on top of it.

What made a huge difference for me was tossing a 20 pound bag of kitty litter on the intake chute. It made a 90% improvement for me. If you did not do your EOD on the same day of the snow, you were out of luck. The next day I got out the garden pick and broke the ice in order to clear a path in front of my mailbox. Out in the country, the mailmen get poe'd if you do not clear a path for their truck to get close to the box. They will not deliver your mail until you clear it.

newjerseybt wrote:

" Out in the country, the mailmen get poe'd if you do not clear a path for their truck to get close to the box. They will not deliver your mail until you clear it."

Through rain,sleet,and snow. just shovel me a nice path. 

My headlight quit after 10 minutes while running my new Sears snowblower for the first time.  It was purchased one year ago.  It's an 11.5 hp machine, model number 917.881150.

I guess it's a simple fix if a person knows what they're doing.  Any tips or recommendations before I try to figure this out on my own?  There's nothing in the owner's manual describing how-to.

Heavy wet snow today and it performed very well . . . . powerful !! 

SB,

You may have a burnt bulb.

Or check the light wire connection down by the engine, under/near starter.

Fred

If its the connection between the light bulb harness and the alternator then once you reconnect make sure you cover it, good quality eletrical tape and/or heat shrink tubing.

If its the bulb you will have to open up the casing, remove the old bulb and get a replacement ( buy two if you're really organized, I keep forgetting where I put the spare ). When you are closing up the casing make sure you get all the seals in place as that will help keep the bulb dry.