Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I'm wondering what the consensus is for chainsaw sharpening jigs. I read a review that claimed the Oregon Chainsaw Sharpener jig was "the best" but would like to read people's "hands on" experiences.

Just to add some extra comments how about the little electric units and the big commercial units as well?

The only review I've found is here

Doesn't look like I generated a lot of discussion on this one.

Here's what I've found out.

Most of the jigs are a variation on the following:

1. Two pivots, one sets the angle of the file from the horizontal while the other sets the angle with respect to the guide bar.
2. There is a holder for the file that is mounted on the pivots. It consists of a top arm that goes through a couple of holes, this sets the angles the file works at. There is a second arm below the first that rubs on a round headed stop screw that is attached to the bolt that holds the horizontal angle pivot. This is used to set how much of the cutter is removed. If you use it properly all the cutters will be the same length and you will take off the minimum metal necessary.
3. There is a metal finger, called the chain stop, that sticks out and is supposed to catch on the back of the cutter. This is used in conjunction with the stop screw to set the cutter length. On some jigs the finger is fixed on others ( Stihl and Oregon so far), you can adjust it ( bonus! ).
4. A screw to clamp the gizmo to the saw's guide bar;
5. A couple of metal fingers that are supposed to hold the cutter steady while you are sharpening it;
6. A depth adjustment screw that allows you to adjust the hieght of the file in relation to the cutter, it has tick marks on it to indicate how much height change is occuring. On my jig there are 12 ticks each representing .009".

Some of the jigs will only clamp a round file, others will also clamp a flat file. More on this later.

The important things to know:

1. What is the angle of the cutter to the bar? Generally 30º to 35º for crosscut ( normal) chain and 10º for rip chain;
2. What is the angle from the horizontal? Normally 0º-10º. I've read that this determines how much the chain self feeds, the farther from horizontal the more it self feeds, but have not been able to confirm it.
3. What is the difference in height between the cutters and the depth guages? Normally this is .020-.030". It determines how much wood is cut by the cutter, the larger the number the more agressive the cut and the higher the kickback potential. When a manufacturer gets certification that their chain is low kickback it is with specific guide bars and specific angles and specific depth guage settings.

How to use the jig:

1. Use something to clamp the guide bar and keep it from moving around. I use a "C" clamp that is held in the jaws of my workmate;
2. Clamp the jig so the metal fingers ( part #5 above) are just above the rivets, tighten them until the cutters don't wobble ( much! );
3. Move the chain so that with the file against the cutter, the file holder is straight up and down, 90º to the top edge of the guide bar;
4. Adjust the chain stop ( part #3) so that it is against the back of the cutter while the file is against the front;
5. Set the two angles ( say 30º from guide bar and 5º down from horizontal)
6. Adjust the depth adjustment screw so that about 20% ( 1/5) of the file is above the top of the cutter. With the correct size of round file this will set the correct angle for the bottom edge of the cutter;
7. Adjust the stop screw ( part  of part #2) so that the file just touches the front of the cutter, then turn it in about 1/4 turn so the file will now file the cutter;
8. File on the stroke that goes from the short side to the pointy end of the cutter;
9. Once you are rubbing on the stop screw disengage the file and pull the chain towards you until the next cutter, with the same angle, is engaged by the chain stop
10. Push back to make sure the chain stop is engaged
11. File and repeat.
12. Once all the cutters on one side of the chain are done you change the angle to the bar by 180º and repeat the process. Since you haven't changed the chain stop nor the stop screw all the cutters should be the same size.

On those jigs that will take a flat file you can also set the depth guages with the jig;

1. Clamp the guide bar;
2. Replace the round file with the flat file;
3. Set the metal fingers;
4. Move the chain so that the file holder is straight up and down ( 90º) to the edge of the guide bar;
5. Set angle to the guide bar at 0º ( its really 90º but they seem to take 90º as )º) and the angle from horizontal to 0º ( straight across and flat);
6. Set the depth adjustment screw so that the flat file is a little higher than the top edge of the cutters
7. Move the chain so a cutter is below the file
8. Set the depth adjustment so the file is just touching the top of the cutter
9. Move the chain so the file is over a depth guage and not touching a cutter;
10. Set the chain stop and stop screw so the file stays there;
11. Change the depth adjustment screw so the file is lower by the amount the depth guages are supposed to be set at. With my jig there are 12 ticks on the head, each one is .009". Since I want somewhere around .025" I turn the knob 3 ticks counter clockwise.
12. File all the depth guages;
13. Round the front of the depth guages by hand.

For jigs that can't do this you have to get a file guage with the correct depth. Its basically a "U" shaped piece of metal channel with a slot cut in it. The slot is the specified depth lower than the top of the "U". You put the guage on the chain so that the metal "roof" is on a cutter and the slot is over a depth guage. You use a flat file and file the depth guage down until you start touching the sides of the slot. Once they are all set you round the fronts of the depth guages by hand.