Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

We got a load of logs in the late fall, somewhere around 5-8 cords ( that a real, legal cord, 4'x4'x8') so I've got a bit of cutting to do.

The current temperature is averaging -25C ( -12F) and yes it is a bit nippy out.

The problem I'm having is that with a new chain it will cut like gangbusters for a log or two and then start getting noticeably duller. When I resharpen it there is some improvement but its not as good as when the chain was new and it goes dull very quickly. I've got the sharpener set for 35º and 0º. I'm also checking the rakers (a.k.a depth guages) and they seem OK. I'm suspicious that I should have the second setting at 5º instead of 0º but I don't see how that could make such a difference.

One or two of the logs had sand or small stones frozen to the bark and I hit it. I immediately had problems and sharpening didn't seem to help. I have two chains, one is on its last legs and the other is brand new. Both seem to have the same problem so I don't think the first chain is "too" old. I do expect to throw it out shortly. The only other syptom is that it is hard to saw in  straight line, the cut seems to curve to the right. I use the dogs which are to the left of the bar.

I think your problem is likely dirt and mud that has encrusted the bark when they were taken out of the woods. I don't think frozen wood makes much difference in cutting. I cut up a large maple last winter and it went OK. I used to have logs delivered as you did and had the same problem. A chain that is dull will curve one way or the other depending on which side of the chain the teeth are duller. Sometimes just sharpening the teeth on the side opposite to the way the saw is curving will help. I found that marking the logs with lumber chalk where the cuts were to be made and then using a wire brush to remove as much dirt as possible at those spots helped alot. I also got one of those chain sharpening jigs that attaches to the bar and sharpened my own chains as needed.

I'm using the same type of jig, that's why I mentioned the angles. The only problem with cleaning where I'm going to cut is that most of the logs are 15" or so in diameter and 8' long so turning them is a bit of a chore. I'll resharpen the chain and try using a cant hook to rotate the logs.

The problem is that even after I sharpen it, the chain doesn't work on good clean logs as well as when it was new, I know its a problem with my sharpening technique, I'm just trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong.

It has been a while since I have used that jig. I have been getting my chains sharpened at a local hardware store as I don't use the chain saw as much anymore. I remember just trying to set the file angle the same as the original cut and occasionally filing off the raker piece. I always held each tooth with one hand while I filed with the other to keep the tooth steady. A bit of a chore. I also used a cant hook. I started aout with a 12" saw and then switched to a 16" which worked much better.

Strange that you mention getting a bigger bar. I have an 18" bar on mine and would like to get a 12". Basically the longer the bar the more HP you lose just pushing the thing around, the chain also costs more. Since much of my normal cutting is less than 12" I don't need the longer bar most of the time. A 12" bar can do at least 24" in a pinch although I've seen some articles that claim 2 1/2 times the bar length, I.E. 30" on a 12" bar. Anytime ( such as now) that I want a longer bar I could just swap.

The jig I have has two angle adjustments one sets the angle of the top edge of the cutter. The other sets the angle that the file comes up from horizontal. From what I've read the first angle should be 30º-35º while the second should be 0º-10º depending on the saw. There is also an adjustment for how high the file is in relation to the cutter. I've also read that frozen wood is harder to cut than warm wood since you are not only cutting the wood but the ice. I suspect that I haven't got the jig adjusted correctly or that I haven't removed enough of the dameage from the stone hit. I'll have another look at it this week and see what I can do.

I also use a local lawn and garden to sharpen the chain but only do it every so often. I try to touch up the blade ( 1-3 strokes ) every 2-3 tanks of gas. If the chain doesn't cut properly I'll do it more often. The current load of wood means I'm going through about 4-7 tanks a day so the saw ( Stihl 026) is getting a bit of use.

The only other problem is cleaning out the air filter regularly since if I don't the saw doesn't idle properly.

Thanks for your help.

OK it looks like this was a combination of two problems.

1. A number of the logs had mud and stones frozen to the bark, generaly on the bottom. Since we started marking where we are going to cut, cleaning the area and then cutting, the chain is staying sharp longer.
2. When I was sharpening the chain I wasn't using the jig properly and it wasn't as "nice" as it could be. I got an Oregon chain sharpening jig, spent some time learning how to set it up and use it, and sharpened the chain. It now cuts very well.

It doesn't look like the fact the wood was frozen was the direct cause of the problem, dirt and rock hits coupled with an incorrect sharpening procedure were the cause.

Thanks to all for the help.