Outdoor Power Equipment (Lawn Mowers, Snow Blowers, Chain Saws and more) Discussions

I'm continuing my quest in a new thread now that I have a more specific question. Old thread is http://www.abbysguide.com/ope/discussions/19249-0-1.html

I got a new flywheel key as the old turned out to be broken. The new one broke after about three pulls and one ignition...

The new key looks like a dud though. The sheared surface looks dimpled as if the metal had bubbles in it. The old one looked solid and the sheared surface is smooth.

Could I have been so unlucky that I got a bad new key or is a second broken key a sign on some other problem? If I remove the spark plug and turn the flywheel, it seems to run smooth.

/Ola

70chevrolet wrote:
Right on the money i think. If you look inside the flywheel at the center hub it should be etcentric....the cam lobe in the flywheel is what opens and closes the points on a point type ignition, or triggers the sensor for electronic ignition. All the key does is keeps the ignition in time.  The end of the crankshaft is tapered matching the configuration in the flywheel, & actually is held by pressure from the bolt pulling the flywheel onto the tapered shaft,  so torque on the bolt is critical, too loose & the flywheel can turn thus shearing the key,

Success!

I got me a decent torque wrench and cleaned the surfaces properly before assembling this time. No problems at all and the engine started on the second pull :)

Thanks

/Ola

OFR,

Congrats!!

                         Fred

ofranzen wrote:

OFR,

What was the setting on the torque wrench ?

I set it to 62Nm/46ft. lbs. as the repair manual I have said.

Now I'll make some final ajdustments on the carburetor, change the oil and get a new belt for the blower fan and all should be in top shape. Feels good but I'm sure we will get *no* more snow this season.